Monthly Archives: July 2008

The 100th Anniversary of Umami

Chef Kunio Tokuoka of Kyoto Kitcho in Japan serves a candle-lit, show-stopping appetizer featuring umami-rich ingredients such as kombu simmered beef, spiny lobster with bonito, and savory egg yolk custard with somked chicken mousse/Parmigiano-Reggiano

You know sweet, sour, salty and bitter. But do you know umami?

You do if you’ve enjoyed tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, anchovies, mushrooms, cured ham, aged beef, and miso soup.

Those are just some of the ingredients or dishes that are high in umami, otherwise known as the “fifth flavor.” Often described as tasting “savory”  or “delicious,” umami was discovered 100 years ago by Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda who studied the taste of kombu dashi (kelp soup stock).

Last week, chefs and scientists gathered in San Francisco for a one-day seminar on umami, followed by a four-course lunch spotlighting that savory flavor. The event was organized by the non-profit Umami Information Center (which is funded by various food companies) to mark the centennial anniversary of umami’s discovery.

Hiro Sone's umami-rich ginger-poached shrimp and watermelon salad with lemongrass vinaigrette made with a touch of Asian fish sauce

Glutamate (glutamic acid), the most common amino acid we consume, is what produces umami. Although we tend to blanch when we hear the words “monosodium glutamate” (glutamate with salt), glutamate is a naturally occurring substance in many foods. “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” (a supposed reaction to eating too much MSG-laced food) has been largely debunked, says Gary Beauchamp, director of the Monell Chemical Senses Center.

“The idea that glutamate could be poison is ludicrous,” he says. Indeed, human milk is much higher in glutamate than cow’s milk.

What glutamate does is make many things taste so much better by adding more complexity and mouth fullness.

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Nursing Home Food That’s Fit For Foodies

Would you choose chicken Marsala #1?

During more than a decade of food writing, I’ve had the pleasure of judging a number of notable food contests, including the Gilroy Garlic Cook-Off, the Castroville Artichoke Festival Cook-Off, the short-lived “Food Fight” TV show competition, and of course, the Pillsbury Bake-Off.

So when I told my friends that I had been asked recently to judge a cook-off at a San Jose nursing home, I got more than a few odd looks.

But I have a soft spot for the work nursing homes do, as my late Mom spent her last weeks in one. I’m familiar with the challenges these facilities face, given the dietary and budgetary constraints they must work with.

Or would you choose chicken Marsala #2?

So I was intrigued when Cindy Dahl, a registered dietitian with Plum Healthcare Group and a former San Diego restaurateur, asked me to be on the judging panel for the “Top Plum Chef” competition. Cooks from Plum Healthcare Group’s 16 California facilities would battle by cooking a specific dish. The winners advance to the next round, where they cook another specific dish. The two finalists then will square off in a cook-off in San Diego for a chance to win $500, a set of knives, a plaque, and bragging rights.

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How We Eat

That’s the apt title of the new thought-provoking speaker series, July 31 through August, hosted by the non-profit, public affairs forum, the Commonwealth Club of California. From Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley to Jesse Ziff Cool of Menlo Park’s Flea Street Cafe to Ryan Scott of “Top Chef” fame and the new Mission Bay Cafe in San Francisco, there’s a program sure to entice.

Here’s the lineup:

*July 31, Thurs., 5:30 p.m. check-in, 6 p.m. program (Fairmont Hotel)
Speakers: Alice Waters, Owner and Executive Chef of Chez Panisse, Author, Sustainable Food Advocate; Eric Schlosser, Investigative Reporter, Writer, Author of Fast Food Nation

Title:  The Joys and Pleasure of Eating Well.

Cost: $15 members, $30 non-members; Premium $55 members, $75 non-membersÂ

*Aug. 4, Mon., 5:30 p.m. program (Boardroom)

Book Discussion: Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

Title:  Navigating Nutritional Minefields.

Monthly book discussion, author not present

Cost: FREEÂ

*Aug. 4, Mon., 6:30 p.m. check-in, 7 p.m. program, 8 p.m. book signing
(Cubberley Community Center Theatre)

Speaker: Jesse Ziff Cool, Restaurateur, Author of “Simply Organic: A Cookbook for Sustainable, Seasonable, and Local Ingredients”

Title: Simply Organic

Cost: $12 members, $18 non-membersÂ

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Bay Area/Napa Valley Foodie Happenings

Sorbet is the finale to the new tasting menu at Mantra

PlumpJack Cafe in San Francisco kicks off its “Women of Wine Dinner Series,” 6 p.m. July 31 with winemaker Cecila Masyczek, who has worked for such labels as Hollywood & Vine Cellars, and Rocca Family Vineyards. The four-course dinner, paired with wines from Masyczek’s portfolio, is $125 per person.

If you miss that event, the next “Women of Wine Dinner Series” on Aug. 19 will feature winemaker Karen Culler of Culler Wines. The four-course dinner with paired wines is $95. For reservations to either dinner, call (415) 563-4755.

In Palo Alto, Mantra has introduced its first tasting menu. Although diners still can order a la carte, there’s also now a four-course tasting menu for $44 (wine pairing is an additional $22) . The tasting menu will change with the seasons. The summer one gives you a choice of entree: baby chicken with wild mushroom risotto or smoked chili organic tofu; and ends with a white-chocolate dipped strawberry sorbet with fresh fruit.

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Farmed Seafood That Gets the Thumbs-Up

Farm-raised Loch Duart salmon

We’ve been conditioned to stay away from most farmed seafood — and for good reason.

But there are some types that have won over critics. Read my primer that I wrote for the Slow Food Nation blog.

Slow Food Nation is a mega-event that takes place Aug. 29 to Sept. 1 in San Francisco. It will feature a marketplace, speakers’ forum, panel discussions, and dinners — all revolving around the celebration and continued fostering of sustainable food around the world.

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