Monthly Archives: August 2009

Take Five With Michael Chiarello, On the Aftermath of “Top Chef Masters”

Chef, cookbook author, and TV star, Michael Chiarello. (Photo courtesy of Bill Reitzel)

You know Michael Chiarello as the charming host of PBS and Fine Living cooking shows.

You know him for his gourmet products and coveted culinary accouterments sold at his NapaStyle stores.

You also know the Culinary Institute of America-grad as the founding chef of Tra Vigne restaurant in St. Helena, and now as the chef-owner of Bottega Napa Valley restaurant in Yountville.

And of course, you know him for how he managed to remain cool, calm, and collected on Bravo TV’s recent “Top Chef Masters” show even when former “Top Chef” contestant Dale Talde went ballistic after Chiarello addressed him as “young man.”

At a time when celeb chefs are easing out of the restaurant kitchen to spend more time in front of the camera, Chiarello is taking the opposite approach. A cooking-show star since the late 1990s, Chiarello decided last year at age 46 to step back into the rigors of a professional kitchen by opening Bottega, even though it had been about nine years since he last did so. Next fall, he’ll be bringing out a Bottega cookbook, too.

We chatted recently about why he dared to step back into the grueling restaurant ring, and of course, about how he felt about his portrayal on “Top Chef Masters.”

Shortribs at Bottega. (Photo courtesy of Phil Harvey)

Q: So, tell the truth; were you happy with the way you were represented on “Top Chef Masters”?

A: (laughs) I was happy with all the shows but one. It was certainly reality TV. No arguing that. When you shoot for 18 hours, and have 46 minutes of screen time, you have a lot of leeway. I’m 47 now. I’m exacting at Bottega, but I’m not a screamer. That doesn’t mean you’re not cooking hard, and that you’re not specific about what you like.

For a guy who has been on TV so much, I don’t watch a lot of it. I had seen one or two “Top Chef” episodes, but I didn’t really watch the show. I had to have them send me tapes to see. I got plenty of calls from the chef community after that show. They were like, ‘I hope that never happens to me!’

Q: I have to say, though, that it was refreshing that “Top Chef Masters” had none of the back-stabbing and sabotage of the regular “Top Chefs” show. Do you attribute that to the greater experience and maturity that you and the other master chefs have?

A: To be honest, I can’t say it’s necessarily a generational thing. They’re casting for a show for reality TV. It’s a producer’s job to create enough intrigue to keep you coming back to see what happens next week. What shocked them was that the public really found it refreshing to see the camaraderie and professionalism. Where I came from, there wasn’t back-stabbing in the kitchen. You were there to learn a style of cooking, and you enjoyed the camaraderie brought on by creating a single vision together.

I’m also friends with 18 of the 24 chefs who were on the show. I’ve known Rick Bayless for 20 years. He cooked a sweet-16 dinner for my daughter. I’ve known Hubert Keller even longer. He’s cooked date nights for my wife and I. And I’ve known Jonathan Waxman since I was 19.

Q: Which of your “Top Chef Masters” competitors would you most want to cook with regularly?

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Kara’s Cupcakes Take To the Road

Kara's Cupcakes go mobile. (Photo courtesy of Kara's)

If you miss the debut this weekend of Kara’s Cupcakes‘ new van as it makes the rounds of the Eat Real Food Fest in Oakland, have no fear. You can still catch the sugar bomb on wheels at other locales in the future.

Yes, the San Francisco-based cupcakery is going the way of Korean taco trucks and salumi bicycles — announcing its Bay Area stops via Twitter.

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New Restaurants, New Wine Happenings, & More

An artsy ice cream dessert from the upcoming Bocanova in Oakland. (Photo courtesy of Bocanova)

Oakland’s Jack London Square has definitely become the hot spot for exciting new restaurants.

The latest one, Bocanova, is expected to open Sept. 1 in a restored 1920s ice-house.

The flavors of Latin America, the Old World, and Northern California will be spotlighted in this Pan-American restaurant by Chef/Co-Owner Rick Hackett. A veteran of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Postrio in San Francisco, Bay Wolf in Oakland, and Oliveto in Oakland, Hackett will be turning out such delectables as Yucatan Seafood Stew ($15), Sea of Cortez Scallops with Brazilian Curry Sauce ($14), a 24-ounce “Ancho” Steak with Chimichurri Bernaise ($32), and whole Organic Rotisserie Chicken with Guajillo & Banana Salsa ($19).

Desserts are by Pastry Chef Paul Conte, formerly of MarketBar in the San Francisco Ferry Building.

Petrale sole picatta at the Lake Chalet. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant)

Another newcomer to Oakland is the recently opened Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic, century-old Lake Merritt Boat House.

The restaurant is by the same team behind the Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant, and Park Chalet Garden Restaurant, both in San Francisco.

At the Lake Chalet grill, Executive Chef Jarad Gallagher serves up dishes such as English Pea & Ham Hock Soup, Dungeness Crab Cakes with Popcorn Puree, and Vande Rose Farms BBQ Baby Back Ribs.

New to downtown Campbell is the Cyprus Bistro & Cafe, which serves organic Greek, Turkish, and Mediterranean dishes, including house-made baklava. The wine list features a large selection of organic and biodynamic wines.

Also opening its doors in downtown Campbell is Chacho’s Taqueria. The eatery used to be located in San Jose, but closed a few years ago. Now, it’s reopened in Campbell, 266b E. Campbell Ave., serving its signature tacos, burritos, ceviche, and soups.

The new Heirloom Tomat-O Burger. (Photo courtesy of Best-O-Burger)

San Francisco’s Best-O-Burger has added two enticing summer treats to the menu.

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Attention: Sprinkles Cupcakes and Facebook Fans

Sprinkles' key lime cupcake. (Photo courtesy of Sprinkles)

Sprinkles Cupcakes is looking for a few good friends.

Actually, the Southern California-based cupcake bakery phenom is looking for A LOT of best friends forever. It’s hosting a super sweet contest on Facebook. Just join its Facebook fan page, and you will be entered to win round-trip airfare for two to Beverly Hills from anywhere in the continental United States, two nights at the Beverly Wilshire, a $500 gift card for meals and shopping, as well as free cupcakes and free cupcake mixes.

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Inside the Cafe at Facebook Headquarters

Employees of Facebook eat THIS for lunch.

Black mission figs with Serrano ham. Tiny beef meatballs with pine nuts and sweet yellow peaches. Tender braised rabbit with moscatel, cinnamon, and fresh cherries. And rich chocolate roulade cake shot through with rum.

That was only a small portion of my incredible Spanish lunch last week at the Palo Alto headquarters of Facebook. After all, social networking — and creating the tools to do it — sure does work up a hefty appetite. No one knows that better than Josef Desimone, Facebook’s “culinary overlord.” And yes, that is his real title.

The energetic, fast-talking, 40-year-old chef invited me to come for lunch to see how his kitchen staff of 50 turns out 2,300 meals a day for more than 800 Facebook employees. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks are provided to this hungry crew — all of it for free. Make friends with someone at Facebook, and you, too, can partake of the scrumptious offerings that change daily, as employees are allowed to bring guests to dine.

Facebook's ''culinary overlord.''

The food, by this former chef of Cafe de la Presse in San Francisco, is so delicious and of such high-quality, it rivals that of restaurants where you’d have to pay a pretty penny to eat. Kathleen Loughlin, a Facebook communications person, jokes that the food is so irresistible that she’s had to frequent the gym more since Desimone came on board a year ago. Job applicants are always invited to come interview near lunch time, too, Loughlin says, because Facebook is well aware that its cafe is a monster recruiting tool.

If Google set the bar for gourmet cafeterias on Silicon Valley high-tech corporate campuses, then Facebook is aiming to push it even higher. Desimone has the cred to do it, too. Back in the day, he was the second sous chef hired at Google by the search engine giant’s famous original executive chef, Charlie Ayers. It was Desimone who designed the layout for the kitchens at Google in Mountain View, and who did the same for Facebook, when it moved into its S. California Avenue building three months ago after outgrowing its 10 buildings scattered around downtown Palo Alto.

“I’d do the Pepsi Challenge with them any day,” Desimone says about Google’s culinary program. “Google was good, but all the original chefs are gone now. And I got my pick of the litter. Eighty percent of my staff came from Google. We work our asses off here. But we have fun doing it.”

Indeed, they do.

One of Hawaii’s most well known chefs, Sam Choy, has cooked here. Charles Phan of the Slanted Door in San Francisco, is scheduled to drop by later this year to do the same. So is New Orleans legend, Paul Prudhomme. They don’t get paid to do so. They just want to do it, because they’re friends with Desimone.

A tapa of rustic bread drizzled with dark chocolate, olive oil, and sea salt.

Marinated Idiazabal cheese with rosemary.

Squash blossoms for Castilian-style zucchini with eggplant and tomatoes.

Meals are structured around cultural or global themes, which change not only daily, but between lunch and dinner. For instance, lunch might be a southern barbecue, while dinner might center around Cuban food. Desimone mixes it all up, never repeating the exact same menu again. He’s so organized that he can tell you what is on the menu for June of next year and which chef is in charge of it.

Employees can make requests. Someone once asked for an all-chocolate menu. Desimone complied with a “Willy Wonka Menu” of chocolate ravioli with pepper ricotta, lamb with a chocolate rub, and mole, of course. Then there was the tribute to “The Simpsons” TV show, which featured deep-fried pork chop in honor of Homer Simpson, and brown rice in an homage to his straight-laced daughter, Lisa.

“We’ll take on any challenge,” Desimone says. “If someone asks me to do their mom’s chicken and dumplings recipe, I’ll do it.”

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