Monthly Archives: August 2010

“Top Chef” Wine and Whine

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I dunno about you, but this season’s “Top Chef” on Bravo TV has got to be one of the least engaging and exhilarating ones in the history of the show.

To be sure, it would be hard to beat the sheer excitement and mad skills of last season’s cast, which included the dueling Voltaggio brothers, Bryan and Michael, as well as the likable Kevin Gillespie and the kick-ass Jennifer Carroll.

This season? It’s not only been hard to keep the cast members straight in my head, but none of the food created has really proved memorable, either. What’s up with that?

Sigh. Guess I’ll just have to drown my sorrows in a glass of “Quickfire Chardonnay.”

Yes, indeed, there is a line of “Top Chef” wines, which also includes a Cabernet Sauvignon. But natch!

My bottle of 2008 Chardonnay was a gift from my friend, Barry, who is also a “Top Chef” fan. (Barry, if you’re reading, a big thank you!) He never misses a show. And I can count on a hilariously snarky comment in my email box the next day from him after a particularly “what was he/she thinking” moment on the show the night before.

You’re probably wondering: Just how good could a wine be that was created for a reality TV show, right?

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A Sweet Society

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How'd you like these raspberry-white chocolate sables delivered to you? (Photo courtesy of Tell Tale Preserve Company)

Executive Pastry Chef William Werner, one of the Bay Area’s top talents, won’t officially open his new Tell Tale Preserve Company on Union Square in San Francisco until November.

But those impatient for a taste of his confections have a novel option in the meantime: Become a member of its Tell Tale Society.

For a $35 a month subscription, you get a once-a-month delivery of house-made pastries, jams, candies and breads. Now, that’s my idea of high society.

Customers can either pick up their package at a designated location or have it shipped directly to them for an extra fee.

The once-a-month delivery bag. (Photo courtesy of Tell Tale Preserve Company)

The first burlap bag shipment of goodies is set to go out on Sept. 1. It will include an almond financier, plum-litchi pate de fruit, coffee-laced milk jam, caramels with volcanic sea salt, savory tomato-semolina bread, praline marshmallows, and raspberry-white chocolate sandwich cookies.

Werner, who has worked at Quince in San Francisco and the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, is building a patisserie and delicatessen on tucked-away Maiden Lane. Tell Tale Preserve Company is a collaboration between him and the Whisk Group, a Maryland boutique hospitality group.

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A Calming, Meditative Dish from Chef David Chang

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He may be known for his potty-mouth and explosive, imploding personality.

But New York Chef David Chang of the mini Momofuku restaurant empire can sure put together one soothing, serene dish.

That’s just what you’ll enjoy in his “Cherry Tomato & Tofu Salad” from the newest Alice Waters cookbook, “In the Green Kitchen” (Clarkson Potter).

The founder of the landmark restaurant, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Waters put this book together from dishes created by chefs at the 2008 Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco.  The premise of the book, of which I recently received a review copy, is that by keeping a well stocked pantry, learning a few basic techniques and seeking out the best organic, local and seasonal ingredients, anyone can create simple meals that nourish and satisfy.

I was fortunate enough to see Chang create this tofu dish at a cooking demo at Slow Food Nation. It’s a super simple dish of creamy, cold tofu topped with a zingy dressing of sherry vinegar, olive oil, sesame oil and sesame seeds that’s finished with refreshing shiso leaves and a bountiful handful of sweet summer cherry tomatoes. If you don’t have shiso readily available, fresh mint or basil leaves would make a fine substitution.

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The Newest in Wine Pairings — Lady Gaga Donuts and Cupcakes

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You’ve had cheese with your wine. You’ve had chocolate with your wine.

But you’ve probably never had the likes of a Lady Gaga donut with a Petite Syrah.

This Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Aug. 28, you can enjoy that unusual pairing that sounds as out there as one of Gaga’s outfits.

Poetic Cellars of Soquel is hosting this creative food-wine pairing. Psycho Donuts of Campbell is supplying all the donuts that day, including the pop star-inspired iced cake ones topped with fresh blueberries.

The winery is offering up even more donut-wine combos with the likes of “Apricotology fritters” with Chardonnay and Viognier; an Oreo cookie-like cake donut matched with Syrah; and S’Mores cake donuts with Poetic Cellars’ Bourdeaux blend, Ballad.

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A Doggone Tasty Time at One Market

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San Francisco’s One Market restaurant — steps from the Hyatt Regency at the Embarcadero — can be a fancy-shmancy place that has hosted celebs such as David Beckham and his wife, Victoria (aka Posh), and featured such high-brow fare as prix fixe dinners centered entirely around a particular artisan-raised animal.

But it also knows how to have fun.

Just witness its newest addition to the menu — a foot-long hot dog. Technically, it’s a little over 12 inches. Served on a house-baked poppy-seed bun, this mouthful of a wiener comes with mustard, house-made sweet pickles, spiced tomato jam and sauerkraut. To wash it all down, you also get your choice of one of seven cold draught beers.

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