A trio of pork tacos at El Molino Central.

When a noted chef tells you the name of a restaurant he thinks is the very best in the Bay Area, your ears can’t help but perk up.

And when he reveals that it’s an unassuming taco joint, you really get intrigued.

Such was the case when I recently interviewed Chef Louis Maldonado for a story in the San Francisco Chronicle Food section about his favorite places in the Healdsburg area.

Maldonado, former chef of Spoonbar in Healdsburg and now culinary director of Mugnaini Imports in Healdsburg, was effusive in his praise for El Molino Central in Boyes Hot Springs. So much so that when I found myself in the area last week, I just had to try it, paying my own tab at the end.

The back of the restaurant.

El Molino Central is a tiny place with a tamale-sized kitchen. Inside, there’s barely room for two small tables, and the counter where you place your order. Lest you think you’ll have to eat your food standing up, you will find a cheerful patio in the back with picnic tables, covered by a trellis and a revolving ceiling fan. You’ll have to walk through the compact kitchen to get to it, though — or go out the front door and walk around the building to the back.

The place reminds me very much of another well regarded taco place — La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara, long a favorite of the late-great Julia Child. Like La Super-Rica, El Molino is an unassuming spot that turns out soulful food with great ingredients.

The handmade tortillas are made with fresh masa from organic dried corn that’s stone-ground daily. The pork is Niman Ranch, the chicken is Mary’s, the fish is local, the coffee is Blue Bottle, and the guacamole made to order.

We started with the guacamole, which is made from one or two avocados ($5.50; $8). It’s a preparation that lets the rich avocado be the star, with just a smidge of onion, cilantro and green chiles. Even with one avocado, it’s a big portion with house-made, thick tortilla chips. In fact, we ended up taking leftovers home.

Fresh guacamole.

Fish tacos.

The Pork Tacos Al Pastor ($14) come three to an order. The citrus-spice-marinated diced pork is splayed over three of those fabulous corn tortillas. The pork has a wonderful smokiness. Shaved pineapple is a perfect accent with its sweet, juicy, tropical taste.

The Bohemia Beer-Battered Fish Tacos ($9.50) come two to an order. The fish gets coated in a thick batter that’s fried to a deep brown with a big crunch almost like British fish & chips. Each taco gets a big dollop of avocado-lime mayonnaise and a garnish of mild salsa de arbol. It’s an ample serving sure to satisfy.

A small refrigerator case inside also holds to-go containers of chicken mole, chicken suizas, and Swiss chard enchiladas — each with spicy refried beans. Just heat in the oven at home to enjoy.

From the looks of the parking lot, the place is a favorite for cyclists in need of refueling. It’s one of those rare places you walk into not knowing what to expect, and leave happily having had your expectations blown.