Chicago Dining, Part I: Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres

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Caviar cones with horseradish creme fraiche at Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres.
Caviar cones with horseradish creme fraiche at Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres.

Chicago, ILL — With about 40 acclaimed restaurants nationwide and in the Bahamas, plus awards galore including a Presidential Medal of Freedom for his global humanitarian work through his World Central Kitchen, Jose Andres cuts a large swath in life.

So, when you step inside one of his restaurants, you know you’re in for a big, bold time.

That’s definitely true at Bazaar Meat by Jose Andres. It’s operated by the Emmy-winning and multi-James Beard Award-garnering chef, and owned by the Chicago’s Gibsons Restaurant Group. It may be five years old now, but you’d never know it from the crowd on a recent Thursday night when I dined, which appeared to be a mix of tourists and business people alike.

Primo cuts aging.
Primo cuts aging.
Another refrigerator holding the goods.
Another refrigerator holding the goods.

Take the elevator up to the second floor of the Bank of America tower to get to the restaurant, where you’ll walk past glassed-in refrigerator cases of Japanese Wagyu beef and American prime, aged for a minimum of 28 days.

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One Potato, Two Potato — Plus What?

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When it comes to Pigs in Blankets, what's old is new again.
When it comes to Pigs in Blankets, what’s old is new again.

Meet “Pigs in Blankets” — meat and potatoes version.

With a big emphasis on the potato.

The usual frozen crescent roll dough or puff pastry is swapped out from this nostalgic dish for a whole russet potato instead that gets stuffed with an entire sausage, then wrapped in bacon.

It turns this throwback from an hors d’ouevre into a hearty main dish.

This rather zany and absolutely delicious dish is from “Retro Recipes” (Countryman Press), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook was written by Bobby Hicks, a Florida-based bartender-turned-culinary-historian, and creator of the popular YouTube series, “Retro Recipes Kitchen.”

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Green Salad & New Potatoes — With An Emphasis on Green

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Eat your veggies -- new potatoes with peas, edamame, and spinach in a creamy, herby dressing.
Eat your veggies — new potatoes with peas, edamame, and spinach in a creamy, herby dressing.

Basic doesn’t have to mean boring.

Nor does it have to be so rudimentary to be pointless.

So, when “Basics Vegetables” (Hardie Grant, 2025) landed on my porch as a review copy, I didn’t dismiss it outright, thinking I already know full well how to cook vegetables.

Instead, I leafed through the pages by Severine Auge, a Paris chef and recipe writer, and found a handy cookbook filled with helpful step-by-step photos for tried-and-true recipes ideal for young, newbie or infrequent cooks or anyone interested in adding more delicious vegetables to their diet.

There are detailed recipes for everything from “Smashed Potatoes” and “Tomato Tatin” to “Veggie Ramen,” “Lentil Shepherd’s Pie,” and “No-Bake Chocolate-Hazelnut Pot de Creme.”

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Fast & Furious — And Super Garlicky

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Fish cooked in plenty of garlic -- in the style of shrimp made famous by Hawaiian food trucks.
Fish cooked in plenty of garlic — in the style of shrimp made famous by Hawaiian food trucks.

Soaring airfares may make you think twice about traveling these days.

But transporting yourself to the tropical paradise of Hawaii and beyond is just a recipe away with “Kimi’s Kitchen” (Ten Speed Press), of which I received a review copy.

It’s a good bet that you’ve never encountered a cookbook by a national champion freediving and spearfisher. But that’s just what accomplished author Kimi Werner is, along with being a chef and environmental conservation advocate who lives on the North Shore of Oahu.

She wrote it with assistance from Jennifer Fiedler, an Oahu-based food writer; and Nicole Gormley, an award-winning filmaker, photographer and ocean advocate whose lavish photos in the book make you feel as if you could plunge right into the mesmerizing blue waters on the pages.

Werner grew up spearfishing with her father from a young age. More than sport, it was sustenance for the family that grew up in the early years with little. Throughout her life, the ocean has been a source of growth and inspiration. In her cookbook, she takes you along on her dives and inside her kitchen to learn how she prepares her favorite recipes. While many of the recipes focus on seafood, there are others that center around meat or are vegetarian instead.

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Layers and Layers to Admire at Strata

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Rockfish crudo -- one of the courses on the $75 prix fixe at the new Strata.
Rockfish crudo — one of the courses on the $75 prix fixe at the new Strata.

In these economic times, bargain bliss is hard to come by.

But look to the new downtown San Jose restaurant Strata, set to open on Wednesday, and you will unexpectedly find it.

Relatively speaking.

After all, when’s the last time you enjoyed an upscale 5-course prix fixe dinner for $75? With a wine pairing for all of $40 for four different pours?

It’s not merely food plopped on a dish, either, but thoughtfully executed and plated with intention.

I had the opportunity to enjoy a sneak peek and taste over the weekend when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant.

The bar-lounge.
The bar-lounge.
The wine bottle display in the lounge.
The wine bottle display in the lounge.

Strata, pronounced “Stray-tuh,” is a geological term that refers to the layers of rock or sediment that form over time. It’s meant to evoke the layers of cuisine, hospitality, and experience that make up the restaurant, says co-owner Dan Phan.

It could also refer to the multi-faceted establishments that Phan, along with co-owners George Lahlou and Johnny Wang, have successfully launched in downtown San Jose over the past few years. Their MO Hospitality is the driving force behind bars Paper Plane, MINIBOSS, Still O.G. and Alter Ego, and the restaurant Eos & Nyx.

Like Eos & Nyx, Strata offers an upscale experience, but in this case, a bifurcated one.

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