Oui Oui to JouJou

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Black cod with caramelized pineapple at JouJou.
Black cod with caramelized pineapple at JouJou.

For a time, it seemed as if French restaurants were an endangered species in San Francisco.

But in the past few years, that classic cuisine has arisen from the brink. That’s no more evident than the arrival last month of JouJou by David Barzelay and Colleen Booth, the team behind Michelin two-starred Lazy Bear in San Francisco.

While the latter delivers an ambitious tasting menu along with the theatrics of an open kitchen, JouJou in contrast serves only an la carte menu in a sprawling 6,500-square-foot space, divided into a few different dining spaces, along with two bars.

The first bar.
The first bar.
And the second one.
And the second one.
The enclosed patio dining room that's like dining in a greenhouse.
The enclosed patio dining room that’s like dining in a greenhouse.

It’s fitting that the restaurant is located in the Design District, what with its shades of cream, milky green, and soft pink that create a sort of vintage vibe, not to mention the rather risque baroque wallpaper in the bathrooms. The decor definitely leans into the restaurant’s name, which is French for “plaything.”

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Butter Up, Part II: Dressed Up Tater Tots

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Tater tots get dressed up with an easy garlic-Parmesan-date butter.
Tater tots get dressed up with an easy garlic-Parmesan-date butter.

Tater tots. Even the name evokes an immediate smile, not to mention joyful memories of being a child.

That’s more than enough reason to stash a bag in your freezer at all times.

Another?

This recipe for “Tater Tots Tossed in Hot Date! Butter.”

As always, they get baked in the oven until super crunchy all over. Then, the magic happens: They get tossed in a garlicky, herbaceous butter with dried dates to boot.

The recipe is from “Hot Date!” (Chronicle Books, 2025), of which I received a review copy.

It’s by Brooklyn-based Rawaan Alkhatib, a cook, writer, and artist of Palestinian and Indian descent. She even illustrated the book with her own exuberant watercolor paintings.

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Butter Up, Part I: Something Fishy — And Delicious

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Good-for-you roasted branzino gets a little indulgent when finished with a delicious green anchovy butter.
Good-for-you roasted branzino gets a little indulgent when finished with a delicious green anchovy butter.

Olive oil is a hallmark of Mediterranean cooking.

But creamy, decadent butter has its place, too, adding a disarming voluptuousness to anything it touches.

I’m sure Julia Child would agree.

I know that Daen Lia surely does. Her cookbook may be titled, “Garlic, Olive Oil + Everything Mediterranean” (Simon Element, 2025), but butter definitely plays a role. There’s even an entire chapter devoted to recipes that use butter, including one to make “Homemade Butter.”

That includes her “Whole Roasted Snapper with Green Anchovy Butter,” in which whole fish get roasted in the oven, then finished with a dazzlingly green and herbaceous compound butter.

Lia is an Australian home-cook and creator of the digital brand, Daen’s Kitchen, who counts more than 8 million followers across her social media platforms.

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Easy-Peasy, Spring-Fling Lamb Chops with Tangy Cilantro and Mint Yogurt Dressing

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Simple and delicious, these lamb loin chops get served with a fresh, creamy, and herby yogurt sauce.
Simple and delicious, these lamb loin chops get served with a fresh, creamy, and herby yogurt sauce.

The certified organic, 400-acre farm in the Capay Valley is one of Northern California’s most beloved.

Full Belly Farm draws crowds at its stands at Bay Area farmers markets, and its produce stars on a legion of restaurant menus.

Established in 1985, it grows more than 80 different crops, including all manner of veggies, fruits, nuts, herbs, and flowers. It also raises chickens, sheep, goats, and cows. It offers farm tours, school visits, and popular events that include farm dinners and pizza nights.

Now comes its newest offering: “Full Belly Farm & Kitchen” (Hardie Grant).

Its first cookbook, of which I received a review copy, was written by Amon and Jenna Muller, who are part of the farm’s second-generation owners. Amon Muller, who runs the farm kitchen, trained at legendary Bay Area restaurants, Chez Panisse, Quince, and Coi. Jenna Muller organizes the farm events.

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Sunny Days Were Made For Spring-y Snap Peas with Ricotta, Lemon, and Mint

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A springtime dish that's so easy, and so full of flavors and textures.
A springtime dish that’s so easy, and so full of flavors and textures.

Snap to it.

That’s exactly what you’ll want to do with spring sugar snap peas now out in full force at farmers markets.

Gorgeously green, naturally sweet, and crazy crisp, they are best when minimally cooked or eaten raw, as in this delightful dish of “Spring-y Snap Peas with Ricotta, Lemon, and Mint.”

This starter or salad is ideal at any time or in any type of weather because it is a no-cook dish that comes together in no time flat.

The recipe is from “Big Bites Time to Eat!” (Rodale), of which I received a review copy.

The book is by Kat Ashmore, Connecticut-based creator of YouTube’s Kat Can Cook and former recipe developer for the “Martha Stewart Show.”

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