Courage Beyond Belief
That’s what Chef Grant Achatz exhibted as he fought an unbelievable battle with tongue cancer.
The celebrated chef-proprieter of Alinea in Chicago and one of the true pioneers in this country of molecular gastronomy, Achatz not only fought for his life, but faced the devastating prospect of losing his ability to taste.
Achatz is nothing but a fighter. After all, as a young man, he so desperately wanted to work at the French Laundry in Yountville under the revered Thomas Keller that he sent Keller his resume — for 24 days straight — until Keller hired him. He ended up rising to sous chef, before leaving for Chicago to strike out on his own.
I’ve had the honor of interviewing him a couple times over the years, and there are few chefs as intelligent, articulate, and thought-provoking.
In this month’s New Yorker magazine, D.T. Max profiles Achatz, and tells how the rare cancer remained undiagnosed for more than a year until it grew so massive that Achatz could barely eat; how doctors told him his only option was to have his tongue cut out, a course of action Achatz refused; and how Achatz, the father of two young boys (one named Keller after his mentor), never stopped working through any of this.
It’s a lengthy story, but I promise you’ll read every word of it.
It’s funny to run into this entry and the link because I’m reading Michael Ruhlman’s “the Reach of a Chef” in which he spends some time writing about Achatz. The guy sounds amazing! Not sure I’m sophisticated enough to actually appreciate his food, but I’m enjoying reading about it.
“Reach of a Chef” is one of my all-time favorite books. In fact, I love all of Michael Ruhlman’s books. He’s a deft writer, and has the uncanny ability to really get at the heart of what drives a chef, and what it takes to really excel in that grueling profession.
He didn’t have throat and tongue cancer, he had neck and tongue cancer. There is a big difference. I know this because my husband was diagnosed with the very same thing at the same time that Grant was.
interesting how global lines interconnect..using olive oil grown by Armando Manni of Tuscany who knew Achatz and expressed admiration of him,,Manni gave a lecture to local foodies one of whom being the FOODGAL and since then many moons ago we have communicated…artists in any venue come together in mystical ways!
Hi Sue:
I’m so sorry to hear about your husband. I hope he, too, is rebounding as Grant appears to be. According to the article, Grant’s original diagnosis was tongue cancer, which then spread to the lymph nodes in his neck.
I can’t imagine how frightening that must have been. I hope that in your husband’s case the cancer was caught earlier, and that his prognosis is good. My thoughts are with you.
Thanks for your kind thoughts! My husband was also diagnosed with tongue cancer that very quickly spread to the lymph nodes in both sides of his neck. After surgery, radiation and chemo, he’s currently cancer free. He was very young to get this also – 36. Hopefully, both he & Grant have seen the last of it! Take care!
Sue, that is so wonderful to hear! Indeed, here’s wishing your husband and Grant, and everyone in their lives, continued good health.