Monthly Archives: May 2008

Take Five With Lisa Rhorer of the New Cin-Cin Winebar

Lisa Rhorer enjoying Bethel Heights Estate Pinot Noir 2004 Willamette Valley. Photo by Dave LiporiAs Google’s first marketing manager, Lisa Rhorer learned to think outside the box. That’s why the 40-year-old was undeterred when it came to leaving behind her passion for high tech to pursue another — wine.

On May 13, she will open the doors to her own wine bar and lounge, Cin-Cin, 368 Village Lane in Los Gatos (formerly Cafe Marcella). It’s a venture with longtime South Bay/Peninsula restaurateur Don Durante, the former executive chef of Le Mouton Noir in Saratoga, and Birk’s in Santa Clara, who now also owns Cascal in Mountain View.

With its use of bamboo, cork, recycled glass, and reclaimed black walnut, Cin-Cin emphasizes sustainability. That’s evident in the wines, too. The majority of the ones featured are made by eco-conscious producers.

With a menu of small plates infused with Asian and Spanish flavors, Cin-Cin invites you to linger. Don’t miss the Diner Sliders, cute as a button, and juicy as can be mini burgers made from organic house-ground beef and nestled inside tender Parker House rolls.

The executive chef is Los Gatos-native Chris Schloss, who has cooked at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland; Azul in Miami; and Telepan in New York City. Durante has known Schloss since he was a kid, as Schloss’ father was involved with Birk’s.

Rhorer’s Google stock options came in handy to help finance the wine bar. After working for the search engine giant for three years, Rhorer left in 2005 to enroll in the wine studies program at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena. Later, she traveled extensively in Europe to meet winemakers there, then went on to work at the Vintage Wine Merchants in San Jose’s Santana Row and to be a wine buyer for Whole Foods in Los Altos.

We chatted about how working at Google prepared her to start her own business, her favorite food and wine pairing, and her remembrance of her first sip of wine when she was all of 10 years old.

Q: You were really that young when you had your first taste of wine?

A: Yes. It was a Robert Mondavi Cabernet. My Dad was taking wine appreciation classes when I was growing up. He took us to Napa. We visited the Mondavi winery. He was a huge fan of Mondavi Cabs.

We always had wine at the table. He allowed me to have one finger-full of wine at the table. It was less than an ounce. I did like it. I liked the feel on my palate. The funny thing, though, is that Cabs are not my favorite now.

Q: What are your faves now?

A: By going to Austria and Germany, I learned to really enjoy Rieslings, drier Burgundys, and Gruner Veltliner. For reds, I like drier, more complex ones like Pinot Noir from Oregon or Burgandy. I don’t drink a lot of Merlots and Cabs, I have a sugar sensitivity. The high alcohol of wine in California don’t agree with me. I get real headachy and bloatedness. The high sugar and high alcohol also mask food. I really go for wines that go well with food because it creates a harmonious experience. That’s why I go for wines with more complexity and elegance.

Q: What is it about wine that captured you?

A. It’s an intellectual beverage. You learn about the culture of people, geology, and vineyard practices. Wine is one of those things you can never learn enough about it. And there’s a pleasure from drinking good wine. It evokes all the senses — your nose, mouth and brain.

Q: What made you decide to open a wine bar?

A: It’s the new watering hole or new Starbucks. Back in the day, people used to go to saloons to catch up at the end of a busy day. As we get busier and become a more sophisticated culture, we still need that watering hole.  I want to provide an environment for them where they don’t feel intimidated and can learn.

Organic, sustainability, and biodynamic is also very important to me. A grape skin is very permeable. Anytime you’re spraying with pesticides you digest that, and you erode the soil. It’s not good for the land and it’s not good for you. I’ve seen what it takes for growers to change their practices. It’s a lot of work. And I want to support that.

Q: How did working at Google prepare you to open a wine bar?

A: It taught me that it doesn’t matter if a ton of people are out there doing something. With Google, there was also Excite, and Lycos. But there’s always a better way to do things. Google taught me not to be deterred, that just because there are a lot of people out there already, that doesn’t mean you can’t go for your dream.

Q. What is a favorite, moderately priced wine that you wish more people would discover?
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Top Chef Mania

Well, so much for having four home-grown San Francisco contestants on this season’s “Top Chef” competition. All four of them have been booted. Erik Hopfinger of Circa restaurant; chef-restaurant consultant, Zoi Antonitsas; her partner, Jennifer Biesty of Coco500; and Michael “Ryan” Scott, formerly of Cafe Myth. One by one, they all had to pack their knives.

Biesty also has decided to depart from Coco500, where she’s headed the kitchen for three years. That report from this week’s Tablehopper.

I don’t know about you, but I had to chuckle at last week’s challenge to cook a dinner for four. Armed with only $10 each, the chefs were sent to Whole Foods to gather their provisions. $10?? At Whole Foods??? Are they serious????

If you’re a fan who can’t get enough of “Top Chef,” soon there will be a whole lot more to get. Of course, there’s already the Top Chef: The Cookbook that’s reportedly sold 65,000 copies since it was published two months ago.

On top of that, you’ll soon be able to take a “Top Chef” cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America, and travel on a “Top Chef” cruise through the Mediterranean in May 2009. You can read all about it on “Broadcasting & Cable”.

Meantime, keep tuning in to see who will be Season 4’s top “Top Chef.” I’m still not sure whom I’m rooting for yet. But my money just might be on either Richard, or Dale of New York’s Buddakan restaurant. Both seem like pretty smart cooks with talent to be reckoned with.

Meet Ex-Google Chef Charlie Ayers

You may know him as the former executive chef of Google in Mountain View. You may also know him as the former private chef for the Grateful Dead.

Now, you can get to know Charlie Ayers even better by joining him on tour as he promotes his first cookbook, “Food 2.0, Secrets From the Chef Who Fed Google” (DK, $25).

Unlike so many chef cookbooks, this one is filled with dishes you can easily make at home, from ”Mexican Chicken and Caper Stew” to “Tofu Nicoise.” Of course, it’s also filled with fun tidbits about what it was like to feed 4,000 meals a day to hungry Googlers. Apparently, co-founder Sergey Brin has a thing for sushi, and co-founder Larry Page has a Subway sandwich habit. Ayers’ food was such a hit, though, that Google ended up having to hire boot camp instructors for the employees, who were getting too pudgy on all those good eats.

As Google employee #53, Ayers probably never has to work another day in his life. But the Johnson & Wales University culinary graduate has far too much energy, and far too much passion about food to stop. He will be opening his own restaurant, Calafia Cafe & Market A Go Go, later this year in Palo Alto’s Town and Country Village. It will serve up fast, casual, healthful, and sustainable cuisine.

May 9 from 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., join him at Kepler’s Books in Menlo Park for a talk and a book-signing. May 11 from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m., he’ll be at Book Passage in San Francisco’s Ferry Building doing the same. And May 19 from 7 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., he’ll do that routine at the Commonwealth Club in Palo Alto (price is $10 for members, $15 for non-members).

Meantime, enjoy this recipe from his new book.

Silicon Valley Split Pea Soup

(serves 6)

1 smoked ham hock, about 2 1/4 pounds

2 cups yellow split peas, soaked in plenty of cold water for several hours or overnight

2 carrots, cut in small dice

2 celery ribs, cut in small dice

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 large fresh thyme sprig

1 fresh oregano sprig

1 bay leaf

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 large russet (or other floury) potato, cut in small dice

14-ounce can crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put ham hock in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then throw away the water (this is to make sure the finished soup isn’t too salty). Put hock back in the pot and add 5 pints water along with drained split peas, carrots, celery, and onion. Add tomato paste, herb sprigs, bay leaf, and garlic. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, partially cover, and simmer for 2 hours.

Lift hock out of pot and set aside. Discard herb sprigs and bay leaf. Add potato and tomatoes to pot. Bring back to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour longer.

Meanwhile, when hock is cool enough to handle, pull all the meat off the bones, discarding fat, skin, and tendons. Dice the meat and return to the soup. Stir in chopped thyme and season to taste.

Serve hot, with crusty sourdough bread.

Meet Celeb Chef Todd English

Todd English of Olives and Figs restaurants will be conducting a cooking demo at Macy’s Union Square in San Francisco, 6 p.m. May 8.

A Macy’s Culinary Council member, English will showcase recipes inspired by the organization Slow Food to help pump up the excitement for Slow Food Nation, a mega food event that will take place Labor Day weekend in San Francisco.

To RSVP to the Macy’s event, click here. A $20 donation to the Symphonix League, which supports the San Francisco Symphony, is requested.

Food Gal Unveiled

Food Gal. Photo by Joanne Ho-Young Lee.You’re probably thinking, “It’s about time!” What can I say, except that I’m a bit camera-shy.

Ever since Food Gal came to life a month ago, my friends and fellow bloggers were telling me I had to post a photo of myself so that Food Gal readers could better identify with me. I finally listened. Yes, that’s me at the top of the page. And you’ll find another similar photo on my “About” page.

I’d like to thank my friend, the talented photographer Joanne Ho-Young Lee for snapping the pics. Like me, Joanne also was laid off a month ago from the San Jose Mercury News. She is now running her own wedding photography business.

I’d also like to give a shout-out at this time to another great gal pal, designer Elizabeth Goodspeed. Fans of the Mercury News Food & Wine section already are familiar with her work, as Elizabeth (“Speedy” to her friends) created some of the most beautiful covers for that section when I worked there. By the way, don’t you adore the Food Gal logo? That’s her handiwork, too. Elizabeth also was laid off from the paper at the same time, and is now looking for the next place to showcase her design talents.

We may be out of the newspaper. But we’re not down by any means.

Call it girl power at its finest.

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