Monthly Archives: September 2009

Cooking with Chef Guillaume at Marche in Menlo Park

Look familiar?

No, that’s not him above.

But Chef Guillaume Bienaime does bear more than a passing resemblance to the Alfredo Linguine character from the movie, “Ratatouille,” especially with the glasses drawn on. You have to love a chef with the playfulness to keep a Pez dispenser like this on a shelf in his bustling professional kitchen.

Below is the real Bienaime, executive chef of Marche restaurant in Menlo Park. And believe me, he doesn’t need a cute talking rat named Remi or anyone else to help him do his job. This 27-year-old chef is a talent, and a giving one at that. Last Sunday, on what was supposed to be his day off when the restaurant is normally closed, he decided instead to teach his first cooking class.

Chef Guillaume Bienaime of Marché at the Menlo Park farmers market.

Marche opened its doors that morning to 16 eager students — most of them regular diners at the restaurant — as well as yours truly and the chef’s Mom to partake in what was the first of four seasonal cooking classes planned annually. And believe me, you will not leave hungry from this $105 class.

We met up with the chef at the nearby Menlo Park farmers market to help gather peppers, corn, peaches, squash, and tomatoes for the dishes we would cook back at the restaurant.

Marche gets all its tomatoes from Baia Nicchia Farm in Sunol, which sells at the Sunday farmers market. Owner Fred Hempel, a geneticist, owns 9 1/2 acres where he grows 30 types of tomatoes, half of them varieties he has created, himself. Indeed, Chef Bienaime is working with Hempel to create a signature “Marche” tomato, resulting from cross-breeding a couple varieties together. It will take two years of tinkering before the tomato will be ready to be grown for the restaurant.

Fred Hempel, geneticist turned tomato grower.

Baia Nicchia Farm's tomatoes.

We carried the provisions back to the restaurant, where we divided up into teams of two or three. The chef explained the dishes we could be cooking that day: Roast Pork Loin a` la Provencal, Summer Squash a` la Grecque, Confit Tomatoes, Summer Corn “Polenta,” Piperade Basquaise, Gratin of Swiss Chard, and Plum & Peach Shortcake.

Chef Bienaime, though, had a special plan for my buddy, Carissa, and I. He was going to have us make Escargots Sommiroise, a traditional dish from Saint-Guilhem Desert in the Langueduoc region, which is snail country. Neither Carissa nor I had ever cooked with snails before, so we were eager to give it a go.

Cooking in Marché's kitchen on a Sunday morning.

Plating the just-baked shortcakes.

We all donned aprons and set to work in the restaurant’s gleaming stainless steel kitchen, grabbing knives, chinoises, copper pots, and food processors. And no, we didn’t escape doing dishes. But we didn’t mind, what with the restaurant’s nifty machine at our disposal. You rinsed off the dishes, piled them into a rack, and slid it all into the machine, where everything would emerge spotless in just three minutes. Why can’t we have one of these at home, we all thought!

At Marche, the garlic is almost always grated into dishes, using a Micrcoplane, rather than chopped or sliced with a knife. Bienaime says he likes how the garlic disappears into a dish this way. Skin on bell peppers is always peeled off, too, even if they are not roasted. The chef does this, he says, because he finds that the peppers are more easily digested this way.

Center cut pork pork loin being smeared with a mixture of grainy mustard, anchovies, garlic, rosemary and thyme.

The pork just after it came out of the oven.

Sliced for serving.

All through the kitchen, students worked at shucking corn; peeling tomatoes; blanching herbs; sauteing chanterelles; and slicing open large pork loins to fill with a spread of grainy mustard, anchovy, garlic, rosemary and thyme.

Now and then in the close quarters, someone would call out “Behind you, behind you — hot, hot, hot!” as a simmering pot was ferried from the stove to a counter. There’s major heat generated in a professional kitchen when all the burners and ovens are turned up. So much so, that we all breathed a sigh of relief whenever we had to make a trip to the chilly walk-in to grab an ingredient.

It wasn’t long before the aromas of roasting pork, toasted nuts, and sauteed garlic were making us very, very hungry.

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A Gem of A Chocolate From A Woman Named Jewel

Skinny chocolates with a weighty flavor.

Pastry Chef Jewel Zimmer of San Francisco has always liked to create good things to eat.

The British Columbia-native first studied bread baking with her father before attending pastry school at Le Cordon Bleu. She later moved to San Francisco to work at La Folie restaurant.

This year, she left the restaurant world to open her own artisan chocolatier company in San Francisco, Cocoa Absolute. Her pricey delicacies are now sold at Bardessono resort in Yountville, Boulette’s Larder in the San Francisco Ferry Building, and the Gardener shop in Berkeley.

The single-origin chocolates are made from cocoa beans sourced from all over the world and formed into a simple, signature-shaped confection.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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From Convict to Celeb Chef

Meet Chef Jeff Henderson. (Photo courtesy of the chef)

If you haven’t heard Chef Jeff Henderson’s story, you should.

Meet this fascinating chef at a free event in Oakland, 6 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Sept. 18, when he talks about how he turned his life around from that of a convicted drug dealer to the first African-American chef de cuisine at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas.

He’s also been featured on the Food Network in the show, “The Chef Jeff Project.” After 10 years in prison, Henderson chronicled his tale in “Cooked,” which is being turned into a motion picture.

I heard Henderson speak at a food conference a few years ago, and found him thoroughly mesmerizing.

He’ll be appearing at the East Oakland Youth Development Center, 8200 International Blvd., and talking about the power of making positive life choices. He’ll also conduct a mini cooking demo with the students in the center’s cooking program.

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PB&J Cupcakes That Can’t Help But Make You Smile

A cute little cupcake full of peanut-y goodness.

I’d gladly submit to homework, home-room, cramming for tests, and sweating over finals again if it meant getting to eat my fill of peanut butter and jelly like a kid back in school.

Especially if it meant PB&J in this scrumptious form.

Yes, creamy peanut butter, roasted peanuts, and a smear of sweet, fruity jam all together in one deliriously good cupcake.

“Peanut Butter and Jelly Cupcakes with Creamy Peanut Butter Frosting” is from the new “Martha Stewart’s Cupcakes” book (Clarkson Potter) that’s packed with classic and modern takes on these palm-size, individual treats that nobody can resist.

The recipe recommends using natural peanut butter, but I used the huge, econo-size jar of  creamy Jiff from Costco that I already had at home, and the little cakes came out more than fine.

The batter, full of butter, sugar, sour cream, and peanut butter, bakes up with the hidden surprise of chopped, salty peanuts inside.

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Tasteful Authors and Other Foodie News

Ruth Reichl (Photo courtesy of Gourmet)

Gourmet’s Editor in Chief, the one and only Ruth Reichl, will be meeting and greeting in Palo Alto, 5:45 p.m. Sept. 29.

The award-winning former restaurant critic, author, and foodie extraordinaire will discuss how we’re eating differently today, and share some of her favorite recipes from the new cookbook, “Gourmet Today” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt).

The event, presented by the Commonwealth Club of Silicon Valley, will be at Cubberley Community Theatre, 4000 Middlefield Road.

Price is $15 for members, and $25 for non-members. Premium ticket holders ($100) also get access to a reception catered by Draeger’s, a copy of the cookbook, and reserved seating. For reservations, call (800) 847-7730 or click here.

You may remember my good buddy and former colleague, Sheila Himmel, as the former restaurant critic of the San Jose Mercury News. Since leaving the newspaper, she’s written her first book, which has just been published.

“Hungry” (Berkeley Trade) was written by Himmel and her daughter, Lisa. It’s the unusual, true memoir of a restaurant reviewer who makes her living eating and her daughter, who in an ironic, almost Shakespearean-twist, is battling anorexia and bulimia.

You can meet both Sheila and Lisa at 7:30 p.m, Tuesday, Sept. 15 at Kepler’s Books in Menlo Park, when they will discuss the bittersweet, powerful, and ultimately uplifting road they have traveled together.

Andrea Nguyen is another prolific and busy friend. The Santa Cruz author of “Into the Vietnamese Kitchen” (Ten Speed Press), has just come out with her second book, “Asian Dumplings” (Ten Speed Press).

Meet her 3 p.m. to 4 p.m. Sept. 26 at Omnivore Books on Food, a jewel box of a book store in San Francisco that’s dedicated solely to cookbooks. Nguyen will be discussing the global varieties of dumplings she showcases in her book. She always brings food to her events, too, so do come say hello to her at this free event.

What food blogger doesn’t know Pastry Chef David Lebovitz, the cookbook author and widely read blogger who chronicles all things sugary in Paris? Now, you can meet him when he stops by Fog City News in San Francisco, noon to 2 p.m. Sept. 25.

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