Monthly Archives: December 2009

Crazy Good Cocoa Nib Cookies, Part II

This innocent little cookie packs a wallop of chocolaty goodness.

This cookie is nothing fancy to look at. But you just might want to brace yourself as its powerhouse of chocolate flavor is sure to floor you.

It’s hard to believe there are only three — yup, count ’em — tablespoons of cocoa powder in the entire batch of cookies.

You’d swear with a chocolate taste this intense that I dumped the entire can of cocoa powder in there, and then some.

But nope, it’s just that little bit along with 1/4 cup of pulverized cocoa nibs that makes these treats taste like a deep, rich cup of hot cocoa in cookie form.

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Crazy Good Cocoa Nib Cookies, Part I

Pecans and cocoa nibs give this cookie crunch and a pretty mosaic look.

The taste of these crisp yet tender cookies is a little elusive.

There’s a roasty flavor, almost of mocha or coffee.

There’s a whisper of boozy complexity.

And there’s a quick, very subtle hit of chocolate that comes and goes in a blink.

These Nibby Pecan Cookies are from “Bittersweet” (Artisan) by chocolate doyenne, Alice Medrich.

They get their distinctiveness from toasted pecans, a dash of real bourbon and a heap of cocoa nibs.

If you’re a newbie to nibs, they’re a fun ingredient worth exploring. Nibs are small broken shards of roasted, shelled and cracked cocoa beans before they fully become chocolate. They are unsweetened and very crunchy, with a pleasant bitterness like a fine Italian espresso. Sprinkle them on green salads for a new-wave topping. They’re great for baking, too, because they retain that appealing, teeth-grinding crunchiness.

Up close and personal with cocoa nibs.

For these cookies, I used a sample of Amano Artisan Chocolate’s Barlovento Roasted Cocoa Nibs (a 6-ounce bag is $10.95) Made of beans from the Barlovento region of Venezuela, the nibs are rich and nuanced.

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Chocolates From New Orleans

Candy cane white chocolate truffles

When it comes to New Orleans, it’s easy to think of gumbo, crawfish, oysters, pralines, and red beans & rice.

Chocolate might not be the first thing that comes to mind, but it might be after you taste Sucre chocolates, which are handmade in small batches, often with local, homegrown ingredients.

Joel Dondis, who worked with the Brennan family at Mr. B’s and was a sous chef at Emeril’s, is the founder. Tariq Hanna, a native of Nigeria who opened his first pastry shop at age 24 in Detroit, is the executive pastry chef.

Their cafe on Magazine Street turns out pastries, specialty cakes, French macarons, gelato and assorted chocolates.

Recently, I had the chance to try a sample of Sucre’s holiday “Sugar & Spice” collection of bonbons.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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Thomas Keller’s Book-Signing Event at Ad Hoc

Ad Hoc Chef de Cuisine Dave Cruz (left) and the one and only Chef Thomas Keller (right).

Enjoying nibbles of the fabled fried chicken and perfect little meatballs, a throng queued up happily at Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville on Saturday morning.

They were there for Chef Thomas Keller’s signing of his best-selling “Ad Hoc at Home” (Artisan) cookbook. The invitation-only event was for “friends and family” of the restaurant. And yours truly was lucky enough to be one of the guests.

Inside the restaurant...

...all set up for the book signing...

A restaurant mascot.

Keller, looking dapper in a sports coat, sat at a back table with Ad Hoc Chef de Cuisine Dave Cruz, as both took turns signing each book.

Keller’s always had an uncanny ability for nailing all the little details. The book signing was no different, as a hostess actually took the time to announce the name of each guest to Keller as he or she stepped up to the table to greet the world famous chef, who signed each book with a script as stylish in form as calligraphy.

A lollipop version of the fabled Ad Hoc fried chicken.

Crisp, seasoned beautifully, and moist and juicy as can be.

Cruz, who was born in the Philippines, chatted with me about how he only came to cooking nine years ago. Prior to that, he worked the front of the house instead. And before that, he was an engineering student — a field no stranger to anyone raised by an Asian parent, we both chuckled.

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Enjoy Yourself at the Top Chef Cookbook Party

Meet San Francisco Chef Jamie Lauren. (Photo Courtesy of Chronicle Books)

Fans of Bravo TV’s wildly popular “Top Chef” show will want to head to the Purcell Murray Culinary Amphitheater in Brisbane, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Dec. 8.

Former Bay Area contestants, Jamie Lauren, Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott will be on hand to do cooking demonstrations and signings of the book, “Top Chef: The Quickfire Cookbook” (Chronicle Books).

Chef Ryan Scott (Photo courtesy of Chronicle Books)

Chef Jennifer Biesty (Photo courtesy of Chronicle Books)

What’s more, you can enjoy sips of the new Top Chef Quickfire Wines (hmmm, wonder how well those go with vending machine fare?).

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