Monthly Archives: June 2010

The Return of Restaurant O in the South Bay

A lot of people attempt comebacks. Few have rebounded from the brink quite like Chef Justin Perez.

It’s been a long three years since Perez, a chef known for his bold and sassy creations, was forced to shutter his popular Restaurant O in Campbell.

The ensuing time was not kind, verging on the plot of a crazy Adam Sandler film, in which anything that could go insanely wrong, surely did. Only in real life, there was no laughter — just tears, anger, frustration and mayhem.

In 2005, the chef was relaxing with his family at their San Jose home, when a hysterical woman came running up, screaming that her husband was going to kill her. Perez and his family took her in and called police. This tale of a good Samaritan soon turned horrific, though, when Perez’s house was later fire-bombed and bricks hurled through his front windows. The husband’s brother was later convicted of those crimes, but not before Perez’s wife and their young children were deeply traumatized.

A year later, with his life back to normal again, Perez renovated his restaurant, doing all the work, himself, with the help of a few friends, only to discover that his landlord intended to sell the property for a senior living development instead. On top of that, Perez says he soon discovered that his best friend, who was his former director of operations, had allegedly embezzled about $750,000 from the restaurant.

Perez was adrift with no restaurant, as well as the IRS on his back for business and payroll taxes that his director of operations never paid. He still had his Restaurant O Catering company, which had moved to Los Gatos. But there was no escaping that he was in dire trouble financially and professionally.

Yet, he survived. He climbed his way out of that morass and is embarking on a dream once more — opening a new Restaurant O in the iconic Wilson’s Jewel Bakery site, 1285 Homestead Road in Santa Clara.

The shuttered bakery, which was in business for nearly nine decades, is a location Perez is intimately familiar with. As a young boy, he and his mother would trek from their Sunnyvale house to buy cookies and cakes from Wilson’s every week.

“I grew up going here. It was a ritual for me,” Perez, 39, says. “In the beginning, Wilson’s was the top dog. We want to put the quality back into this spot.”

He calls the demographics a dream, what with the site’s proximity to Santa Clara University, the Santa Clara Courthouse, and middle-income residents. It also provides a central point for his catering business.

Indeed, the huge site — 10,000 square feet on the street level, plus a 3,000-square-foot basement — was far too large for most other businesses to consider. But because Perez plans to operate both a restaurant and his catering company out of the locale, it proved a perfect fit for him.

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A San Francisco Treat and A San Jose One

In San Francisco:

Whether you have guests in from out of town or want a magical only-in-San Francisco experience, yourself, head to Luce restaurant in the InterContinental San Francisco for “Dinner & Cocktails With A View,” in conjunction with the Top of the Mark at the InterContinental Mark Hopkins.

Every Wednesday through Saturday evening, diners can indulge in a 3-course dinner at Luce created by Chef Dominique Crenn, then two classic cocktails at the Top of the Mark on the 19th floor with jaw-dropping 360-degree city views. Or vice-versa, as you can also choose to have the cocktails first, then the dinner afterward.

Price is $80 per person and includes dinner at Luce, with a complimentary glass of sparkling wine, and two classic martinis at the Top of the Mark. The price also includes complimentary access to the Top of the Mark, as well as a taxi voucher.

Reservations are required by calling either Luce at (415) 616-6566 or the Top of the Mark at (415) 616-6916.

In San Jose:

In the mood for brewski? Then, Morton’s The Steakhouse in downtown San Jose is the place to be, 6 p.m.-7:30 p.m. June 11.

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A Swine Time at Cochon 555

Last night in San Francisco, it was all about pig, pig and more pig.

Cochon 555, which pits five top San Francisco chefs against one another in a pork-off, rolled into the Fairmont San Francisco on Sunday night to a sell-out crowd of 450 carnivores.

Each of the chefs had to prepare a 140-pound heritage breed hog from head to toe. A panel of judges, as well as the public, got to taste the dishes to determine one winner who will go on to compete with nine others selected from around the country at the Grand Cochon at the Food & Wine Classic at Aspen, June 18-20.

In one corner, Anthony Strong of Pizzeria Delfina, whose weapon of choice was a Glouster Old Spot, known for its distinctive layer of back fat. In a second corner, Dennis Lee of Namu, dueling with a Yorkshire pig, known for its muscularity. In the third corner, Thomas McNaughton of Flour + Water, holding court with a Duroc (otherwise known as Berkshire), a favorite among chefs for its intramuscular marbling and thick fat cap.  In the fourth corner, Morgan Maki of Bi-Rite Market, with a Mangalitsa, a very rare breed famous for its high-quality lard-type fat and for having double the marbling of your average pork. Lastly, Staffan Terje of Perbacco with a Swabian Hall pig, the first time one has been shown in the United States. This unusual pig was created in 1821 in Germany, from the mating of the fattest pig in the world with the leanest.

It was a chance for folks not only to taste, but to learn about some heritage breeds rarely available at supermarkets or restaurants. It was an opportunity to get up close and personal with owners of small ranches who raise these now-scarce breeds, as well as with some elite San Francisco butchers, who have become veritable rock stars for bringing back a lost art. Indeed, you’d be hard pressed to see so many people at one place armed with knives, mallets and saws. There was something primal, even carnal, about it all.

Dave the Butcher, along with women butchers from Avedano’s Holly Park Market in San Francisco, got the pig party started by demonstrating how to take apart a whole pork shoulder. To emphasize just how healthful heritage pork is, Dave the Butcher even popped a raw sliver into his mouth.

He quipped, “When it comes to the pigs we use, we try to know where it comes from, what it eats, and what TV programs it watches.”

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Bovolo Will Bowl You Over

It’s no big deal these days to snag a decent latte and a nice pastry inside your neighborhood bookstore.

But how about being able to pick up a best-selling novel, a glossy mag, and a plate of dreamy pasta carbonara?

Yeah, not many bookstores can boast of that. But Copperfield’s Books in downtown Healdsburg sure can. That’s because past the front door, past the shelves of books, and all the way in the back of the store, you’ll find Bovolo, a sunny restaurant that makes everything from scratch from locally grown ingredients and specializes in the meat-of-the-moment, pork.

Bovolo, the sister restaurant of Zazu Restaurant & Farm in Santa Rosa, is a tiny 24-seat cafe big on charm.  It makes its own bacon and salumi from heritage pigs, as well as its own fabulous gelato. It features “Fish Frydays,” the only day of the week that pig makes room for fish. Corkage is also free for Sonoma County residents. Enter through the backdoor at 9 a.m. before the bookstore opens, and you can enjoy a rustic breakfast of fried sweetened goat cheese turnovers, a breakfast pizza or a black pig bacon, egg and cheese sammy.

Just be sure to time your visit well, as Bovolo is open only until 6 p.m. on weekdays.

The hubster and I made it there just before closing to enjoy an early dinner.

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Persian Pub Grub, Whoopie Pies, Pig Galore & More

Persian Pub Grub

Leave it to Iranian-born Chef Hoss Zare to reinterpret pub food with bold Persian flavors.

Tonight through Saturday at 8:30 p.m., he will team with Syre Piorkowski (a “beer sommelier”) and Ryan Corbett from the Monk’s Kettle in San Francisco to present special beer and wine pairings with Persian-style pub food at his Zaré at Flytrap in San Francisco.

Because pub grub doesn’t really exist in Iran, Chef Zare promises a most memorable meal, including sumac couscous salad with Dungeness crab; and chicken wings “Fessenjoon” with pomegranate walnut sauce. Each of five dishes will be paired with a different beer, and sometimes alongside a wine, as well.

Price is $75 per person, which includes the wine and beer. For reservations, call (415) 243-0580.

Time for Whoopie Pies

That would be gourmet ones from Marché in Menlo Park, which will be sold at the restaurant June 4-5.

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