Monthly Archives: November 2013

Clear Skies with A Chance of Great Chicken at the New Fog City

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Chef Bruce Hill cutting up a chicken cooked with his patented method at Fog City.

Chef Bruce Hill cutting up a chicken cooked with his patented method at Fog City.

 

Fog City Diner has a most storied past in San Francisco.

Long ago, the establishment nourished sailors before they shipped out to do battle in World War II. Then in 1985, Chef Cindy Pawlycn opened the doors there to what was then called Fog City Diner, serving up burgeoning California cuisine in the shiny Airstream-like restaurant.

A month ago, after an extensive remodel by owners Bill Higgins and Bill Upson, it reopened with veteran Chef Bruce Hill at the helm. It jettisoned the “diner” to become just Fog City.

The whimsical artwork on one wall.

The whimsical artwork on one wall.

With Hill’s vast experience as co-owner also of Bix, Picco, Pizzeria Pico and Zero Zero, it’s no surprise that the restaurant charged out of the gate with an impressive showing, as evidenced by the media dinner I was invited to there the week it opened. All around me, booths were crowded and seats at the bar filled with patrons enjoying specialty cocktails such as the gingery “Inside Job” (James E. Pepper Rye, Nocino, Orgeat, ginger shrub and lemon; $11).

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Cozy Up To These Pumpkin Rolls

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The orange tint of these rolls comes from -- what else -- pumpkin.

The orange tint of these rolls comes from — what else — pumpkin.

 

These are called “Pumpkin Cozy Rolls” for a reason.

The dough is so downright pillowy to the touch, you’ll be hard pressed not to lay your head on it to take a nap.

The recipe is from the new “Choosing Sides” (Andrews McMeel), of which I received a review copy. Food writer Tara Mataraza Desmond has crafted this cleverly named cookbook that’s perfect for this time of year — when you’re scratching your head for new side dishes to add pizazz to your holiday table.

The book includes 130 recipes for breads, salads, veggie dishes, grains and stuffings. The directions are detailed and even include suggestions for main courses to pair each side with.

ChoosingSides

With Halloween here tomorrow, I couldn’t help but be thinking of pumpkins.

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Westfield Valley Fair Debuts New Dining Terrace, One Market Expands Weekly Beast Menu & More

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Artist's rendering of the new Dining Terrace at Valley Fair Shopping Center. (Photo courtesy of Westfiled)

Artist’s rendering of the new Dining Terrace at Valley Fair Shopping Center. (Photo courtesy of Westfiled)

Westfield Valley Fair Unveils New Dining Terrace

If you’ve worked up a hunger after fighting the crowds at the new Uniqlo store at Santa Clara’s Westfield Valley Fair Shopping Center, head to the mall’s spiffy new Dining Terrace.

The revamped 23,000-square-foot space opens to the public officially November 1.

In addition to comfy lounge seating and an alfresco outdoor patio with fire pits, the Dining Terrace will feature 18 fast-casual eateries.

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No Surprise: The Steaks Are The Thing at Osso Steakhouse

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A whole Dungeness in garlic sauce at Osso Steakhouse.

A whole Dungeness in garlic sauce at Osso Steakhouse.

 

Osso Steakhouse opened earlier this summer in a most storied location: the site of the former Vanessi’s, the venerable San Francisco restaurant high atop Nob Hill that fed generations during a time when eating out was really an occasion.

Situated at the bottom of the stately high-rise condo building, the Grammercy Towers, the restaurant is very much a throwback. It’s done up in striking Art Deco black and green, with sleek silver sconces illuminating the room. Tuxedo-attired servers carry the food to the cozy booths from the exhibition kitchen.

Osso is the latest venture by Dante Serafini, and Jennifer and Jerry Dal Bozzo, the same team behind the Franciscan Crab Restaurant, The Stinking Rose, Calzone’s Pizza Cucina and the Old Clam House, all in San Francisco. Recently, I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant to sample the new menu.

The Art Deco-inspired dining room.

The Art Deco-inspired dining room.

We started with the octopus crostini ($15.95), which brought thinly shaved octopus slices piled high on crisp rounds of bread. The octopus was nicely tender, but the liberal amount of chili used totally obliterated it.

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“Top Chef” Alum Edward Lee’s Miso-Smothered Chicken

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Miso-smothered chicken with tangy, crunchy jicama pickles.

Miso-smothered chicken with tangy, crunchy jicama pickles.

If you’re a fan of “Top Chef’‘ like I am, then you’re sure to remember Chef Edward Lee, who is Korean, cooks with French techniques and makes his home in the South.

Those three cultural heritages come together deliciously in his new cookbook, “”Smoke & Pickles” (Artisan), of which I received a review copy.

Lee may be chef-owner of two acclaimed restaurants, 610 Magnolia and Milkwood, both in Louisville, KY. But the food he presents on these pages is the rustic, bold-flavored type he makes for friends, family and even for staff meals.

“Miso-Smothered Chicken” exemplifies that. It’s bowl-food at its best: A mound of fluffy rice  with tender, braised chicken seasoned with garlic, cayenne, orange juice, chicken stock, soy sauce and miso. It’s chicken stew — Japanese-style.

smoke-and-pickles

What really makes the dish is the accompanying pickles. Yes, they take a little more work, and have to be made at least a day ahead of the chicken. But one crunchy bite later, you’ll be so glad you made that extra effort. Read more

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