Chef Mourad Lahlou has had quite the journey.

From his early days as an economics student at San Francisco State, where he started dabbling in the kitchen because he missed his mother’s cooking from his native Marrakech.

To this self-taught cook’s opening of his ground-breaking Aziza restaurant in the city’s Outer Richmond neighborhood, which was named for his mother.

To that restaurant’s evolution from belly dancers and very traditional fare to thrilling modern takes on Moroccan cuisine.

Now comes Mourad, his new eponymous restaurant in the historic Pacific Telephone building, which opened in January.

Years in the making, it’s a grand, glam setting fit for a chef who has grown into one of the most respected and gifted around.

Walk through the doors and you are immediately greeted with a striking art piece — a cross-section of a massive tree’s roots. It is beautifully organic in nature to be sure. But it’s also a symbol of how Lahlou’s cooking may grow and change, but is always firmly rooted in his heritage.

I had a chance to see and taste for myself when I was invited in as guest of the restaurant recently.

In looks, Mourad is worlds away from Aziza with its kasbah-feel in a series of intimate, dimly lit rooms. In contrast, Mourad has a sense of openness and contemporary elegance with its 19-foot-high windows, back-lighted columns, polished wood tables, sparkly dandelion-like light fixtures, and dramatic glass-enclosed wine bridge.

The street-level restaurant even has a wall of windows on the side of the building that look into the kitchen, where you can often spot Lahlou side-by-side with his cooks.

You have several options at Mourad. You can choose to order the $120 per person tasting menu or a la carte, which includes five different family-style entrees to share, too

The latter seems to be especially popular, as most of the tables around us on a Saturday night were opting for a family-style entree.

That’s what my husband and I did, too. But first we began with a few starters.

I’m sure we’ve all enjoyed baba ghanoush or other eggplant dips. But none presented as beautifully as the eggplant one ($16) here.

Quenelles of smooth, smoky eggplant puree are arranged with red pepper, and ribbons and chunks of grilled eggplant to create a play of textures. It’s served with two house-made flatbread rounds. They’re the size of crumpets, tender and chewy, and just heavenly. It’s almost a good thing that you get only two of them (though you can order more for an additional cost) because I could easily eat another and another.

Silky slices of raw kanpachi ($19) get a lift from floral ginger foam and crunch from toasted puffed rice. Pearls of finger lime add just the right burst of citrus.

Meaty, tender octopus ($20) came garnished with braised artichokes and a smoky, peppery merguez broth splashed with kale oil.

The smoked salmon ($22) was one of the best renditions I’ve ever had. The smoky, sweet, rich flesh was so buttery in texture that it practically did melt in the mouth. Sumac lent a berry-like tang, and browned butter added even more luxuriousness.

Then it was on to the main course — yes, the chicken, which has been touted far and wide. For good reason. Yes, it’s $75. On the menu, it’s listed as serving two. But honestly, if you order a few appetizers, the chicken easily can serve four.

It’s chicken that’s at once homey yet elevated. Brined in olives and preserved lemons, it’s roasted until the skin takes on a burnished mahogany. Every bite is juicy, even the breast meat.

It’s a generous plate, especially because it comes with four sides: long-simmered kale with a tangy, citrus bite; confit fingerling potatoes covered with buttermilk foam and sweet onions; tender, sweet-sour heirloom beans flavored with feta and za’ atar bread crumbs; and my favorite couscous. The couscous is so light and airy, you almost think the tiny pearls will take flight. The couscous looks austere until you take a bite — it’s mixed with brown butter, giving it a naughty nutty richness.

There are also three sauces to go with the chicken: a zesty salsa verde-like one, a smoky tomato one, and a thick, fiery harissa.

This is chicken for the ages — much like the fabled one at Zuni Cafe. It’s destined to be devoured and adored for years to come. I know I’d come back to the restaurant just for this again.

Pastry Chef Melissa Chou’s desserts always show restraint in just the right way. Her “Honey & Almond” ($12) is as light as a cloud. It tastes of orange nougat with orange blossom, beeswax and icy granita.

The kitchen offered to make a smaller order of the Sugar Puffs ($10 for six normally) for us to try. The golden fried doughnut holes are so airy that they’re practically hollow inside, much like a cream puff. Burnt honey and strawberry dipping sauces accompany them. And yes, they are every bit as irresistible as they sound.

The evening ends with tiny, chewy almond cookies.

Lahlou has definitely come a long way along his culinary arc. No doubt Mourad will allow him to soar even higher.

More: Dinner at Aziza

And: Mourad Lahlou’s Prawn-Kumquat Skewers