Basking in Luxury at the Four Seasons Oahu
OAHU, HAWAII — Staying at the Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina is every bit as posh as it sounds.
When my husband told a co-worker that we’d be staying there complimentary, as guests of the Hawaii Visitors Bureau, she gasped, “Do you have the right clothes for that?”
My husband and I also quickly calculated that the total price of our room for two nights nearly approached the cost of one month of our mortgage.
But if you possess the means, wow, what a way to relax in paradise.
A former Marriott, the property was completely renovated a year ago. Its 17 floors sport 371 rooms, the majority of them ocean front.
An especially nice touch is an iPad in the room, which among other things, allows you to order room service from any of the property’s five restaurants and lounges.
There are three pools, including a dramatic infinity one for adults only. If you’re parched while sunbathing, one of the resort’s specially equipped bicycles will deliver a bracing drink or cocktail right to you. The resort features a man-made lagoon. Since it’s privately owned by the resort, you can actually drink alcohol on the sand there, too.
The Four Seasons is located on the more secluded western side of the island. It’s actually right next to the Disney Hawaii Resort. The two share the same area of the beach, but the Four Seasons still manages to be a quieter refuge.
It’s not located in the hustle-bustle of Waikiki. In fact, you’ll have to get in your car to get anywhere else. But the resort offers so much, including a variety of stellar restaurants, that you could easily plant yourself on the premises during your entire stay, never venture beyond its borders, and be quite content.
After flying in, our first stop was lunch at the Fish House. The casual, open-air restaurant overlooking the beach is all about Hawaiian seafood. Chef Ray German, who grew up in Southern California, adds a coastal San Diego-touch to his cooking.
Oysters ($21), breaded in panko and fried till golden is a great beginning.
My husband’s grilled fish sandwich ($27) was made with shitomi, a broad-billed swordfish. It was served on a big wooden board alongside Mexican-style corn done up with queso fresco and smoked paprika.
I always need my fill of poke on the islands so the sampler ($24) was a great way to indulge, since it comes with three types — octopus with avocado, lomi lomi, and a spicy marlin.
Another great perk at the Four Seasons is that it squeezes its own juices. And what an array it offers. Of course, my favorite was a cold-pressed ginger mixed with a little soda water.
For dinner, it was on to La Hiki, a pan-Asian restaurant. Chef Joey Domenden offers both prix fixe and a la carte options. General Manager and sommelier Danny Bendett will help you with pairings. Or in my case, turn me on to my favorite new sake — Yuzu Omoi. As he described, it’s like a more delicate, less boozy version of limoncello.
The amuse that was fried tofu cubes dressed with ponzu. Shrimp chips with Sriracha sour cream come to the table complimentary. It’s like chips and dip — Asian-style — and as addicting.
Bang Bang Street-Style Chicken Salad ($14) is a heap of cabbage, carrots, cilantro and chicken cooked in Chinese white wine, all dressed in a creamy peanut sauce. It has good flavor, but I only wish the sauce had been applied with a lighter hand, as the veggies ended up over-dressed and losing most of their crunch.
A pair of fluffy steamed buns nestling house-made kimchi and tender five-spice short rib will set you back $16, which may leave you swallowing hard. But folks, this is the Four Seasons in Hawaii, and prices reflect that.
Crab okonomiyaki ($19) is not done in the standard Yokohama-style, which is made with a batter in which all the ingredients are incorporated before being griddled. Instead, La Hiki does the Hiroshima-style, in which the ingredients are layered and piled high, including yakisoba noodles, cabbage and bean sprouts. Apparently, it’s done that way so everyone can pick the portion with their favorite ingredients. Because it’s layered like that, it’s much less dense and more loose and airy in texture. Bonita flakes waving in the wind garnish the top.
For dessert, the doughnuts ($14) stand out from the pack when they’re made with sweet rice flour, giving them a slightly bouncier texture like that of butter mochi. Pandan gives the doughnuts a punch of vanilla flavor, plus an unmistakable green hue.
The next day, it was back to La Hiki, but this time for brunch. And what brunch it is. There are various levels, but if you choose the option for the full buffet brunch without alcoholic beverages, it will be $45 per person.
What sets this brunch apart is not necessarily its breadth — though, it does offer a wide variety of options — but its quality and attention to detail.
Those cold-pressed juices I mentioned, for instance. Imagine having your pick of about 10 different ones to start the day with. If you’re gluten-sensitive, there is even a section of gluten-free baked goods.
There’s everything from made-to-order waffles and omelets to dim sum (a regularly changing variety sourced from a local maker) to house-made nut butters and honeycomb to kung pao chicken and fried noodles. The house-made pastries are smaller in size, allowing you to try two or more without feeling guilty if you only want a taste.
If you prefer, a la carte options also are available, including crab Benedict ($26), a fruit plate with honeycomb and banana bread ($21), and coconut cream baked oatmeal with poached mango ($14).
Italian cuisine is not necessarily my first choice when visiting Hawaii, because I always feel like I should be experiencing the more Asian-inspired local fare. But when Italian food is done well, as it is at Noe, it definitely makes me rethink that mentality.
The lovely restaurant, with most of its tables outdoors overlooking the ocean, takes inspiration from Southern Italy and its lighter, coastal cuisine. All the pastas are made inΓΒ house. The 1,000-bottle wine list features vintages from around the world, but with a special emphasis on Italy and France.
Milan-born Assistant Manager Emanuele Accame is of part Japanese heritage and fluent in Japanese, while Chef Ryo Takatsuka cooked in Michelin-starred Italian restaurants in Japan and Italy.
The pastas are so popular that almost every table orders at least one of them. We did, too, right after enjoying yellowtail crudo ($22), vibrant with nectarines, cremini mushrooms, capers and peppercorns.
The restaurant will let you pick a different pasta for a sauce preparation other than the one on the menu, if you like. My husband swapped out rigatoni for tagliatelle instead for the lamb ragu ($28), which is thick with nearly all meat.
The strozzapreti with clams, bottarga and broccolini ($27) was briny sweet like the deep sea. The supple noodles were strewn with breadcrumbs for a nice added crunch.
We shared the whole branzino ($40) that was grilled simply, then drizzled with celery sauce and garnished with asparagus three ways — shaved asparagus, puree and spears.
The restaurant makes its own limoncello sous vide. It’s worth a taste. It’s zingy yet sweet, strong but not knock-you-out potent.
To really indulge during your stay on the property, treat yourself to a massage. A range of spa services is offered. All tension melted away in my 50-minute Ikaika (strong and powerful) deep-tissue massage. For an extra $25, you can have your massage in a private outdoor hut. I was told that the Four Seasons is the only resort on Oahu to offer them, too.
While I did see other private cabanas on Maui offering massages, I questioned how private they were, given that they were open-air and right above the beach path, with people walking by just a few yards away. In contrast, the Four Seasons ones are situated so that the back of the huts be opened up without fear of anyone passing by. Instead, you just view the lush scenery, and hear the wild birds and the ocean waves.
After you’ve been pummeled into bliss, a cocktail is in order. The hotel’s open-air Hokulea Lounge overlooks one of the pools. Cute jars of pickled veggies and roasted nuts are the complimentary bar snacks.
The Matcha Ti ($16) blends Agricole rum, muddled lime, green tea
reduction and matcha powder for a balanced cocktail with a earthy character.
The Jasmine Moscow Mule ($16) doesn’t come in a copper mug. But it will win you over with its additions of floral Jasmine tea and pearls, along with ginger beer, ginger juice, vodka, lime juice and a touch of bubbly.
If after all of that you don’t feel like a new person, heaven help you.
More Hawaii Places to Try: A Visit to Oahu’s Mahina & Sun’s and The Pig & The Lady
And: Eating at Koko Head Cafe, Tin Roof and the Huge Shirokiya Village Walk
And: My Q&A with Chefs Graham Elliot, Lincoln Carson, Michelle Karr-Ueoka, and Rory Hermann
What a wonderful experience! Such a nice place. And wonderful photos! Thanks for taking us along, virtually speaking,. π
Looks amazing. I always think about heading out to check out the bar or restaurant there but I always dread the traffic going to that part of the island. You really have to go there and stay there, which I guess isn’t a bad thing if you can afford it. π
Oh my. The pandan doughnuts and okonomiyaki are making me drool!