Thanks to the advent of the pandemic, I’ve learned to always keep a cooler in my car. With traveling these days pretty much limited to car trips, it pays to be prepared since you never know what wonders a spur-of-the-moment stop will yield.

Such was the case when my husband and I were in Sonoma a few weeks ago, and spied the sign for Salumeria Ovello.

This charming spot is owned by Chef Andrea Marino, who once had his own Michelin-starred restaurant in Barberesco, Italy. After moving to California and getting married, he opened this storefront about three years ago.

Yes, there is house-made salumi. But also, so much more, including panini stuffed with everything from Niman Ranch porchetta and arugula with house-made mayonnaise ($14) to slow-roasted beef tongue accented with salsa verde ($14).

There’s also fresh pastas to cook at home ($9 to $11), charcuterie platters to-go ($95 to $144), Marino’s signature vitello tonnato ($14), and sweets such as lemon ricotta cake ($8) and tiramisu with house-made ladyfingers ($8).

Salumeria Ovello also makes daily rotisserie specials. That particular day it was roasted duck, marinated in oranges and spices. We purchased half a duck ($23), loaded it into the cooler, and reheated it in the oven for dinner when we got home.

With fresh orange slices garnishing the duck, the sweet citrus really permeated the meat, which was tender and delicious.

We also took home fresh-made spaghetti alla chitarra ($18 for two containers), which I cooked and sauced with Ovello’s ragu alla bolognese ($14). The pasta was supple, and the sauce so thick and meaty with a long-simmered taste.

Ovello’s also makes a few different kinds of focaccia ($4 per slice). The Bianco, crowned with black pepper, sea salt, and chunks of cheese was crunchy on top and all around the edges while fluffy within. It’s the perfect accompaniment to anything else you pick up there.

Pro Tip: Be sure to carefully peruse the shelves for imported dried pastas, tinned seafood, and olive oil, as well as the refrigerator cases for finds such as Italian specialty butters.

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