Dining At the New 7 Adams
Illuminated in neon, the lucky number “7” can’t be missed, indicating that you’ve not only found your destination but are fortunate to be in for a real dining treat.
That marks the spot of 7 Adams, the new restaurant by a former Michelin-starred power couple, that’s actually located at 1963 Sutter St. in San Francisco. Chef-Owner David Fisher, who opened it in November with his wife, Pastry Chef Serena Chow Fisher, named the restaurant for the street that he grew up on in upstate New York. Peninsula diners may also recognize the duo from their stints at Bird Dog in Palo Alto.
The couple previously operated Marlena in San Francisco, which earned a Michelin star in 2021 just a year after opening. But they decided to leave that restaurant last summer when a dispute with the owner came to a head.
It’s nice to see them rebound by teaming up with the Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group, which operates such successful establishments as Trestle and The Vault, both in San Francisco.
7 Adams is a long, narrow restaurant that boasts banquettes, a few bar seats, and a heated and covered outdoor dining patio. It’s got a cool mid-Century Modern-kind of vibe, what with the cut-out shelving behind the bar.
The restaurant serves a 5-course menu for $87 that’s along the lines of the ones at Chez Noir in Carmel and Troubadour’s Le Diner in Healdsburg, in that while there is only one choice for the first two courses, there is a choice of two offerings for the remaining three courses.
The first item to hit the table, which doesn’t even count as one of the courses, is one of the most sublime. It’s glossy, golden milk bread rolls dusted with sea salt with cultured butter. They are warm, oh-so puffy and fluffy, possessing a touch of sweetness, and so delightfully good that you’d kill to have seconds.
On the Saturday night that we dined, the first set course was Hokkaido scallops accented with hazelnuts and Cara Cara oranges. A roasted Kombu broth was poured over tableside. 7 Adams easily adapted to my scallop allergy, and created a version with smoked avocado instead. I didn’t feel deprived in the least, not with the big, smooth, round jolt of umami from the broth caressing the creamy, smoky avocado. A touch of sesame seed oil added a nutty pop.
The second set course was butternut squash veloute that was again poured tableside into bowls arranged with red endive, creme fraiche, and a puddle of Wagyu vinaigrette. Yes, you read that right. The deeply orange soup was sweet and velvety, with the vinaigrette adding richness to the body but not making it necessarily heavy tasting.
Pasta was next. My husband chose the lamb tagliatelle that came draped with thinly shaved matsutake, so white and pristine looking that they almost resembled meringue shards. Underneath were the tender noodles along with shards of tender braised lamb in a woodsy oregano ragu.
I opted for the ricotta gnudi, which was a $65 supplement, owing to the white truffles shaved over it. Three balls of gnudi made up this rich and luscious dish, each of them with an oozy cheesy center. Diced just-harvested chestnuts were strewn around the dish, adding sweet, starchy, and nutty notes.
Chef Fisher surprised us with an extra course, bringing it to the table, himself. Because he grew up in Buffalo, NY, he joked that he’s been on a crusade to show people what real Buffalo wings are all about. Only in this very highbrow-lowbrow version, he had taken Wolf Ranch quail, boned it out, turned it into a neat cylinder of meat that was fried till crisp on the outside and super juicy within. Then, he doused it with Frank’s RedHot Original Sauce cut with plenty of butter. It was tender, tangy, and spicy enough to make your scalp prickle with warmth. And you just might want a dozen of them the next time you watch a 49ers game.
For my main, I chose the Berkshire pork collar. The meat had been taken off the bone, sous-vide cooked, and formed into a neat and rather sizeable cube of meat, all shiny and glazed on top with apple gelee. Leaves of Castelfranco radicchio and sweet leeks garnished it. The meat was incredibly succulent and smoky tasting with that concentrated porky sweetness we all love.
My husband opted for the A5 Wagyu rib-eye, which was a $40 supplement. Cooked over binchotan, it may seem like a slender piece, but with meat this richly marbled, you don’t need much to satisfy, especially when it’s finished with a bone marrow jus. A small cube of tender beef tongue came alongside, as did a dollop of vibrant green garlic miso.
For the two of us to share, there was a plate of petite Yukon Gold potato terrine slices drizzled with black garlic mayonnaise.
Dessert offers two choices, so we got one of each. First, the fun “Chocolate & Rye” that came to the table looking like a soft-boiled egg. But it was really lemon curd surrounded by whipped cream with cocoa-lavender ice cream and rye shortbread crumbles. It may have been a chocolate dessert, but the lemon and lavender gave it a lift so that it never ate heavy.
The other dessert was “Winter Citrus,” a light and bright tasting combination of yogurt mousse with an airy graham cracker cake and refreshing pomegranate-mandarin sherbet.
Roll the dice on 7 Adams, and you’re sure to get not only lucky, but extremely satisfied, too.