Elk, CA — I have never aspired to be one of those ladies who lunch.

Somehow, so many hours squandered in the afternoon just provokes too much guilt in me.

Yet after spending a leisurely weekday afternoon partaking of a 5-course lunch at the Michelin two-starred Harbor House Inn on the rugged Mendocino coast, I could definitely be persuaded to be one now.

That’s even on a stormy day that drenched me before I made it through the front door and prevented me from taking any outdoor photos.

Six years ago, I had the pleasure of dining for the first time at this 1916 property after Chef Matthew Kammerer came on board to transform the restaurant from a wayside stop to a must-stop. That time, it was for dinner, and before it officially opened to the public (because I helped write some of their original marketing materials).

So much has changed since Kammerer took over. Most notably, the former executive sous chef at San Francisco’s Saison when it held three Michelin stars, gained his own two Michelin stars, launching this Craftsman-style inn three hours north of San Francisco in the tiny town of Elk into the stratosphere.

Dinner is a thoroughly special experience that will immerse you completely in Kammerer’s singular coastal cuisine that transports with a sense of place like no other. Lunch is more concise but no less thrilling. It’s also a fraction of the cost at $125 per person versus $285 per person for dinner.

The 20-seat dining room, overlooking Wharf Rock arch curving dramatically in the Pacific Ocean, was nearly full on the day that I dined last month. Two of the tables were celebrating anniversaries, too.

There’s one prix fixe menu, a copy of which is on your table held in place by a piece of abalone shell. There are more of those iridescent shells hanging on one wall, a reminder of the bounty of the water just steps away.

Service is on-point, as expected for a restaurant of this caliber, but not stuffy in the least. When my husband asked if iced tea was available, our server asked if he preferred green or black, and said it would be made fresh but would take a moment to do so. When it was presented with its sea foam-like head, my husband rather marveled that it was surely the first time he’d ever sipped iced tea from a Riedel wine glass no less.

Lunch begins with warm slices of house sourdough bread, so hearty and chewy that I wished they’d sell loaves of it, as I’d surely buy a whole one to take home. There is sea lettuce incorporated in both the bread and the cultured butter that accompanies it, adding a subtle briny seaweed taste. It’s as if earth and ocean coalesced into one perfect bite.

Harbor House, which has 11 guest rooms, also boasts its own 320-acre farm, complete with 90 raised beds. There are also herbs and edible flowers growing around the main property. Delicate blossoms that were picked that day dotted a bountiful bowl of Little Gem lettuce tossed with buttery croutons and shaved pickled beets, all very lightly dressed in a spritely yuzu dressing.

A deceptively looking simple piece of Fort Bragg black cod arrives in a bowl with blades of mustardy tasting pok choy. Warm turnip broth is poured over tableside. Dig in and be astounded by the smooth hit of smokiness. So much so that if you closed your eyes you would think you were sipping sweet porky bacon broth. But it’s really the katsuobushi that gives it that meaty quality and the leek oil hidden underneath everything that adds a slick of fatty richness like bacon would.

The main course is juicy sausage made from sustainably raised lamb from Richardson’s Ranch in Sea Ranch, arranged over blue corn polenta. It comes with pickles, and a bowl of sweet, nutty tasting sesame-glazed white carrots.

To refresh the palate, there is mandarin sorbet, its deep orange hue hidden by a blanket of foamed Greek yogurt that’s like aerated whipped cream, only with a deep tang. If only my usual cup of yogurt at home could possess this ethereal texture all the time. Spoon up a little of both to enjoy the ultimate Creamsicle.

To add a restorative touch, a warm infusion of marigold and mint leaves is poured into handmade ceramic cups to enjoy, tasting like a spring garden and leaving you feel thoroughly pampered.

Dessert is a tart done up with a glossy chamomile top layer sprinkled with sea salt. The filling is flavored with foraged California bay nuts from bay laurel trees that get shelled and roasted. If you’ve never had the pleasure of trying one before, the flavor will provide a jolting surprise, as it tastes exactly like coffee.

Lastly, there are mignardise of sticky, chewy, black lime jellies with a preserved citrus flavor that extends deep and long.

This was a meal that hit all the senses, that made one feel well cared for in every way. And it definitely made me see the light in being a lady who lunches.

More: A Look at One of the First Dinners Ever Served at Harbor House Inn