Psst…The New Suspiro at Santana Row Has A Secret Speakeasy
The new Suspiro, which opened in San Jose’s Santana Row last month, offers up delightful Spanish and Peruvian specialties, along with an intriguing attraction:
A secret, reservation-only speakeasy tucked away in the back with its own private entrances.
How surreptitious? The press materials I received never even mentioned it. If you go to the Suspiro web site, you won’t easily find anything written about it either. That is, not until you scroll to the very bottom of the page to find a red star symbol underneath the restaurant’s phone number. Click on it, and it will take you to the Instagram page with a link. Click on that, and you’ll see yet another link to make a reservation at the speakeasy via Resy. You’ll also see a link there for “members,” where you can apply to be one. Although I was told it’s unlikely a membership will ever entail a fee, it may entitle you in the future to special perks.
So, when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant a few weeks ago, this was all news to me. As was the fact that the executive chef is Yerika Munoz Rodriguez, a woman who had Frida Mexican Cuisine and Cantina Frida in Beverly Hills, and worked with celebrated Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio at Astrid y Gaston in Mexico City. That’s because all the press materials only included the name of Oscar Santos, the chef de cuisine, a Barcelona native who spent time working at that city’s Michelin-starred Enigma by Albert Adria.
Granted Munoz Rodriguez also oversees Zazil, El Jardin and Chika, all in Santana Row and all owned by the Buen Rallo Group, which also operates Il Parco and Colibri, both in San Francisco. Maybe the feeling was that she was not a new name per se? Even so, it would be nice — and equitable — to see her get equal fanfare.
All that being said, Suspiro is a fine addition to Santana Row, with its soaring, light-filled dining room with exposed ceiling, pale wood and mossy green accents, woven basket-like light fixtures, Edison bulbs, and stylish curvy-backed chairs.
The moment you sit down, a bowl of cancha, Peruvian roasted corn is set on the table. Roasty-toasty with a deep corn taste with a hint of sweet starchiness, they are airy and crisp, not teeth-shattering like convenience-store corn nuts, and you will find yourself reaching for them again and again just like popcorn.
Suspiro has a sizeable cocktail list. The Porrone ($18) is a summery, citrusy one with Tanqueray Seville Orange, Aperol, Fever Tree tonic, Bergamot Rosolio, basil, lemon, and blackberries. It does indeed come in the traditional Spanish glass pitcher it’s named after. But fortunately, I didn’t have to risk dry-cleaning bills and a drenching with the server pouring it directly into my mouth. Instead, it was poured at the table into a glass with ice. Unfortunately, the sangria machine was on the fritz that night, so my husband went with his second choice, La Ultima ($18), a lovely floral blend of Awayuki Strawberry Gin, Fever Tree Sparkling Lime & Yuzu, and dehydrated lime, and garnished with fresh flowers.
Who can ever resist patatas bravas ($15), with chunks of crispy potatoes with a creamy texture inside? Especially when served with dollops of garlicky aioli and a slightly spicy tomato-based bravas sauce.
The ceviche de Atun ($26) sports Peruvian and Japanese influences. Raw tuna chunks garnished with nori get a powerhouse of flavor thanks to tamarind married with citrusy leche de tigre and chipotle in a peanut butter-laced sauce that’s thick, creamy, tangy, and spicy.
The tortilla Abierta ($18) is not the wedge of Spanish omelet you may be used to. Instead, this is a thin, open-face omelet garnished with slices of peppery, sweet and juicy sausage, and meaty shiitakes that makes you think readily of breakfast.
For something bright and fresh, go for the ensalada de sardinas ($16), which brings crisp romaine heart draped with peeled and pickled cherry tomatoes, pickled red onions and lightly cured sardines.
From the large plates, the octopus ($38) is very tender and smoky, and comes with more potatoes.
The paella de carne ($28) easily feeds two or more. The rice is infused with rosemary, and forms the foundation for chicken and pork ribs, dotted with creamy aioli. It’s all very savory with a lovely smokiness. There are the coveted crispy bits of rice — but they are actually on top, not on the bottom of the pan, indicating that the pan was likely put under a broiler or salamander to get the crunch more quickly rather than allowing a bottom flame to do so.
For dessert, I had to go with the Peruvian Suspiro limeno ($14) after Munoz Rodriguez told me it was her favorite. “Suspiro” means “to sigh” in Spanish, she explained, and “Suspiro Limeno” is “the sigh of a lady from Lima” that refers either to the sound the woman makes whipping the dessert by hand or the contented reaction of the person eating it.
The thick, pudding-like custard topped with a fluff of meringue is quite sweet, but this version balances it with the tangy burst of tropical passion fruit, making it both rich yet refreshing.
Then, it was time to check out the speakeasy — the only one in any of the Buen Rallo Group restaurants.
Go past the restrooms to find it hidden by a black curtain that once parted inexplicably reveals a Pac-Man machine next to a door with a digital lock. If you have a reservation, a server will escort you inside the dimly lighted space with its own full bar with drinks and food menus.
The decor is eclectic with old books stacked purposefully on shelves, and vintage pisco bottles that look like miniature statuary affixed to the walls. There’s a set-up for a DJ, a private room and a separate enclosed outdoor space. Because the restaurant is on the ground-floor of a commercial office complex, I’m told it can stay open until 2 a.m., but it’s still to be determined if it will.
If you want to enter the speakeasy more clandestinely, there’s another private entrance tucked away on the plaza that’s unmarked, save for the fairly unobtrusive red star logo above it.
A furtive bar certainly has all the makings for a good time. If you know, you know. And now, you most certainly do.