Dining at Fish & Bird Izakaya

An agedashi tofu that comes loaded with extras -- at Fish & Bird.
An agedashi tofu that comes loaded with extras — at Fish & Bird.

This gem of a place called Fish & Bird serves both those things, plus a whole lot more.

The name of this Berkeley izakaya was actually inspired by the Tom Waits song of the same about a bird that falls in love with a whale.

Likewise, it won’t take much for you to become infatuated with this Michelin-recognized place that serves modern Japanese shareable small plates inspired by seasonal California ingredients.

That’s what I found when I dined with my husband after taking in a matinee of Berkeley Rep’s rock musical, “Galileo,” that’s only about a 12-minute walk away. (By the way, Raul Esparza — you know him from “Law & Order: SVU” — and Madalynn Mathews are spellbinding as father and daughter in this production.)

The izakaya sports an open kitchen, bar seating and tables.
The izakaya sports an open kitchen, bar seating and tables.

Even on an early Sunday evening, Fish & Bird was full of diners eager to enjoy Chef Asuka Uchida’s food. A native of Japan who grew up with parents who owned a restaurant, she actually focused on French cuisine at the start of her career, which took her to Australia, then New York where she staged at the acclaimed Corton, before moving to the Bay Area to cook at Spruce in San Francisco and B-Dama in Oakland.

You’ll spot her flitting about in the open kitchen, where the dishes come out fast.

A non-alcoholic drink that tastes of citrus and ginger.
A non-alcoholic drink that tastes of citrus and ginger.

The food was made to go with cocktails or Japanese beer, both of which the restaurant has a nice selection. If you’re looking for something non-alcoholic as I was that night, the Crooked Tree Citrus ($12) with cherry, ginger, and soda is refreshing and not overly sweet.

Sea bean and corn tempura fritters.
Sea bean and corn tempura fritters.
Sashimi moriwase.
Sashimi moriwase.

From the “bites” section of the menu, the sea beans & corn tempura ($16) is simply irresistible with its lacy, ethereal light batter. Done kakiage-style, the golden clusters of sustainably grown, crunchy sea beans and sweet corn kernels are crispy through and through. Matcha powder comes on the side to sprinkle on for a nice note of astringency.

From the “raw” section, the sashimi moriawase ($42) offers up a splendid selection of tuna, kanpachi, sea bream, and house-smoked ocean trout, all supple and served at the perfect not-too-chilled temperature to let their rich natural taste shine.

Meaty panko-crusted butterflied sardines.
Meaty panko-crusted butterflied sardines.

The specials change frequently and have a limited availability each night. The Iwashi Fry ($21) were two butterflied Monterey Bay sardines that were crusted in panko and fried up crisp, and served with house-made tartar sauce. The tiny bones were fried to a brittle crispiness, rendering them easily eatable, too.

I’m always a sucker for homey agedashi tofu ($15). In this version, the fried silken tofu in a pool of umami-forward dashi also included shishito peppers, pieces of tender eggplant, grated daikon, bonito shavings, and grated ginger. With a bowl of Koshihikari rice from Japan ($5) alongside, it was as comforting as it gets.

Chicken karaage with that fantastic curry salt on the side.
Chicken karaage with that fantastic curry salt on the side.
Grilled black cod.
Grilled black cod.

My husband, on the other hand, has never met a chicken karaage ($15) he didn’t want to order. The frying on the chicken pieces was again spot-on, rendering the chicken juicy and crunchy. Alongside was a small dish of the restaurant’s house-made curry sansho salt (which it also sells by the jar to take home). You’ll find yourself using every last particle because it adds such a fabulous robust warmth to the chicken — the perfect touch.

Gindara yuanyaki ($28) is melt-in-your-mouth local black cod that’s been marinated in soy sauce with Okinawan shikuwasa citrus juice, then grilled over blistering binchotan, leaving it alluringly smoky and silky.

When you’re craving clean and vibrant Japanese fare, Fish & Bird has got it going on.

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2 comments

  • Foodgal, please help me to find a retailer or online platform to order butter from le buerre Bordier. The Frenchery that you profiled in 2020 does not show it as a product. I have been contacting many retailers and platforms and can’t find it. Thank you!

  • Hi Theresa: I see it on the Frenchery’s site: https://frenchery-preorders.square.site/

    I know they get shipments in at certain times, so they may not always have it readily available that particular day or week. But they do get it in.

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