Roasted Sweet Potatoes Get Even Better With A Little Bourbon
Although whiskey can be made anywhere in the world, it can only be called “bourbon” if it’s made in the United States.
Who knew!
That’s because Congress passed a law in 1964 that declared bourbon as “America’s Native Spirit.”
You’ll learn that and so much more in “Bourbon Land” (Artisan), of which I received a review copy.
This “spirited love letter” is by James Beard Award-winning Edward Lee, chef-owner of 610 Magnolia and Nami, both in Louisville, KY, who writes both romantically and knowledgeably about Kentucky’s most famous liquor.
Indeed, since Lee opened his flagship restaurant in 2002 and made Kentucky his home, he’s been passionate about drinking and cooking with bourbon.
For those who don’t imbibe bourbon very often, Lee offers a primer at the start: All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. For bourbon, a whiskey needs to be distilled from a fermented mixture of grains or mash that’s at least 51 percent corn. It has to be aged for at least two years or at least four years for those with the highest standards, and done so in new charred oak barrels. Moreover, when it’s put into barrels, it cannot be less than 80 proof or more than 125 proof.
This book takes you through the history of this honey-amber-hued spirit, the founding of Kentucky’s bourbon regions, the accurate way to read a bourbon label, and how to taste bourbon like a professional.
What’s more, there are 50 recipes for novel ways to use bourbon in cooking, such as in “Bourbon and Gochujang BBQ Shrimp,” “Mushroom Grilled Cheese with Bourbon Gravy,” “Brown Rice, Spelt, and Bourbon Risotto,” and “Bourbon Cherry Ice Cream Sandwiches.”
With the holidays upon us, I couldn’t resist trying my hand at “Roasted Sweet Potato with Bourbon-Miso Butter.”
This recipe is geared for serving two, but can easily be scaled up if you want to make this for a larger crowd.
Just roast whole sweet potatoes wrapped in foil in the oven until very soft. Then, slit them and squeeze their ends a little to create a pocket to hold a dollop of the bourbon-miso butter in the center.
This compound butter is easily made by just heating bourbon, dark miso, brown sugar, sesame oil, garlic and lemon zest, allowing it to cool a little before stirring it into softened butter. Chill the butter mixture in the fridge until it hardens before using. This recipe makes quite a lot of the flavored butter, but it keeps for weeks in the fridge, and would be incredible on so many other things including pork chops and biscuits. Or opt to make just half the recipe as I did.
Besides the miso-bourbon butter, the sweet potatoes also get garnished with red pepper flakes, as well as crisp, fried rosemary needles. Lee gives directions for making this on the stovetop. However, I also offer an alternative method below that uses less oil and makes for no splattering: Just place the rosemary needles in a microwavable bowl with a shallow pool of oil, then microwave on high until crisp.
The sweet potatoes are creamy and garlicky, with a tickle of heat. The bourbon adds a toasty vanilla note and the miso provides a delicious salty, savory depth.
This isn’t your grandma’s sweet potatoes with marshmallows. Instead, it’s sweet potatoes for a new generation, with everything you still love about that holiday root veggie, but refreshed with global flavors and a touch of Kentucky’s finest.
Roasted Sweet Potato with Bourbon-Miso Butter
(Serves 2 as a side)
2 sweet potatoes
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1/2 cup corn oil
2 sprigs rosemary
1/2 cup Bourbon-Miso Butter (recipe follows)
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Rub the sweet potatoes with the olive oil and sprinkle all over with the salt. Place each sweet potato on a large square of aluminum foil and wrap tightly. Place the sweet potatoes on a sheet pan and bake for about 45 minutes, until the flesh is soft to the touch. Remove the sheet pan from the oven but wait 5 minutes before unwrapping the sweet potatoes.
Meanwhile, in a small pot, heat the corn oil over high heat until it reaches 375°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove the rosemary needles from the stems. Add the rosemary to the hot oil and fry for 40 seconds, until crispy. Immediately use a spider to skim out the rosemary and drain on a paper towel. (Note: You can also fry the rosemary in the microwave. Simply remove the needles and place in a microwavable bowl with a shallow pool of corn oil or other neutral oil. Cover loosely with a paper towel. Microwave on high for 1 to 2 minutes until needles turn crisp. Remove the needles to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Save the oil to cook other things in, such as eggs or potatoes. Store the oil covered in the fridge.)
Place the hot sweet potatoes on a plate or cutting board. Using a sharp paring knife, make a slit in the top all the way down the length of the sweet potato. Push the bottom of the sweet potato on opposite sides with both hands to open up the flesh. Top with a dollop of the bourbon-miso butter. Garnish with fried rosemary and a few sprinkles of red pepper flakes. Serve right away, while the sweet potato is still hot and the butter hasn’t completely melted.
Bourbon-Miso Butter
(Makes 1 1/2 cups)
6 tablespoons bourbon
2 tablespoons dark miso paste
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
In a small pot, simmer the bourbon over medium heat until reduced by half. Add the miso, brown sugar, sesame oil, garlic, and lemon zest. Bring back to a simmer. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and let cool until just slightly warm to the touch.
Place the butter in a large bowl. Drizzle in the warm bourbon mixture a little at a time and whisk to combine with the butter. When all the liquid has been incorporated, transfer the compound butter to a lidded container or roll it into 1 1/2-inch-thick logs and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill the butter in the fridge for at least 1 hour before using. Make sure to bring the butter back to room temperature before serving. Store in the fridge for up to 4 weeks.
Adapted from “Bourbon Land” by Edward Lee
Another Edward Lee Recipe to Enjoy: Miso-Smothered Chicken
Plus More Sweet Potato Recipes for the Holidays: Sweet Potato Rolls with Miso
And: Spiced Sweet Potato Bundt Cake
And: Sweet Potato Tea Cake with Meringue from Tartine Bakery
And: Sweet Potato Salad with Cumin, Smoked Paprika, and Almonds
And: Ash-Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Chipotle-Orange Sauce
And: Miso-Maple-Jammed Sweet Potatoes
And: See’s Scotch Kiss Sweet Potatoes
