Shawarma Meatloaf with Caramelized Onions is Pure Ottolenghi Comfort

Make meatloaf -- shawarma-style.
Make meatloaf — shawarma-style.

Beef meatloaf. Turkey meatloaf. Pork meatloaf. And combos of all three meats in one, baked either free-form or snuggled inside a loaf pan.

You’ve no doubt had all these iterations of meatloaf, and loved every one of them for their nostalgic taste.

But I bet you’ve never had a shawarma meatloaf, smothered in caramelized onions, soft herbs, and pomegranate arils, and baked into a pie-shape in a cast-iron skillet.

This winning dish could only come from the one and only Yotam Ottolenghi, the Israeli-born British chef and owner of numerous restaurants and delis in the United Kingdom.

The recipe is from his newest cookbook, “Ottolenghi Comfort” (Ten Speed Press), of which I received a review copy. It was written with his long-time recipe developer Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller, head of quality at Ottolenghi; and co-author Tara Wigley.

These are recipes definitely designed for an adept home-cook, less complex and lengthy than others he’s written, but no less enticing with plenty of global flavors.

Prime your appetite with everything from “Cheesy Curry Crepes,” “Meatballs with Nuoc Cham, Cucumber, and Mint,” and “Braised Lamb with Butter Beans and Yogurt” to “Baked Polenta with Zucchini and Green Harissa,” “Leek, Cheese, and Za’atar Rugelach,” and “Baked Custard Affogato.”

For this Middle Eastern meatloaf, ground lamb is combined with cilantro, mint, garlic, and eggs plus cloves, cumin, paprika, allspice, turmeric, and cayenne pepper. Soaked bulgur bulks up the mixture; and plenty of grated onions and grated zucchini add moisture to the meat.

The lamb (or beef) mixture gets baked in a preheated cast-iron skillet.
The lamb (or beef) mixture gets baked in a preheated cast-iron skillet.

Pat the meat mixture into cast-iron skillet that has been preheated on the stovetop. Bake for 20 minutes in the oven, then spread over the top caramelized onions that have been seasoned with cinnamon, allspice, a pinch of sugar, and a splash of pomegranate molasses. Return to the oven to bake until cooked through.

To serve, sprinkle more fresh mint and cilantro leaves overtop, along with pomegranate seeds. Stir together Greek yogurt with more pomegranate molasses for a cold, creamy, and tangy sauce to serve on the side as a counterpoint to the savory warm meatloaf.

This makes for a hefty meatloaf, which I think serves more like 8 than the 6 suggested by the original recipe. That’s the only change I made below.

Slice into the meatloaf to unveil its light green hue that looks much like falafel.

It looks like a giant falafel inside.
It looks like a giant falafel inside.

If you’ve been scarred by dense and dry meatloaves, rest assured that this one is wonderfully juicy. It’s herby and smoky, with sweet, buttery onions galore. Despite all the spices, it’s fairly mild tasting. So, if you’d like a punchier taste, feel free to increase the spice amounts.

Like all good meatloaf, too, this one is equally delicious enjoyed cold the next day, folded up in a flatbread or tucked into pita with a big smear of that pomegranate molasses-flavored yogurt.

A fun riff on traditional meatloaf.
A fun riff on traditional meatloaf.

Shawarma Meatloaf with Caramelized Onions

(Serves 8)

2 onions, grated (1 3/4 cups)

3 eggs, lightly beaten

3 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon paprika

1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice

1 1/4 teaspoons ground turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2/3 cup bulgur

1 pound, 10 ounces ground lamb (or beef), 20 percent fat

1 large zucchini, grated (2 cups)

1/2 ounce cilantro, leaves and stems finely chopped, plus 1/4 cup extra leaves to serve

3/4 cup mint leaves, finely chopped, plus 1/4 cup extra leaves to serve

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and black pepper

For caramelized onion topping:

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 onions, thinly sliced (4 cups)

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

For pomegranate yogurt:

1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds, to serve (optional)

To make the meatloaf, put the onions, eggs, garlic, spices, and bulgur into a medium bowl. Set aside in the fridge for 1 hour, to soak and bloom. Add the lamb, zucchini, cilantro, mint, 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, and a good grind of pepper and mix well to combine.

Meanwhile, make the caramelized onions. Put the oil into a medium saucepan and place on medium-low heat. Add the onions, sugar, 3/4 teaspoon of salt, and some pepper, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring often, until slightly caramelized. Add the molasses and spices and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Swirl the pomegranate molasses into the yogurt and set aside.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Place an 11-inch cast-iron ovenproof saute pan on high heat, and when hot, add the remaining oil and spread it in the pan. Add the meatloaf mixture and, using your fingers, quickly pat down and immediately place in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes. Spread the caramelized onion topping evenly on top and bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and seat aside for 15 minutes to rest.

Sprinkle with the extra mint and cilantro leaves and the pomegranate seeds, if using. Serve warm or at room temperature, with the pomegranate yogurt alongside.

Note: The meatloaf can be made and sitting ready in the pan for up to 1 day before baking. Once baked, it keeps for a couple of days in the fridge. Bring it back up to room temperature or warm through before serving.

Adapted from “Ottolenghi Comfort” by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller, and Tara Wigley

More Yotam Ottolenghi Recipes to Enjoy: 2-Scalloped Potatoes with Chimichurri

And: Chickpeas Cacio e Pepe

And: Butternut Squash with Orange Oil and Caramelized Honey

And: Miso Butter Onions

And: Roasted Eggplant with Anchovies and Oregano

And: Squash with Chile Yogurt and Cilantro Sauce

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