Chinese Walnut Cookies for the Lunar New Year

Like Chinese almond cookies -- but made with walnuts and sesame seeds instead.
Like Chinese almond cookies — but made with walnuts and sesame seeds instead.

Growing up in San Francisco, I remember many a meal at a Chinese restaurant that would conclude with a plate of fortune cookies set down in the center of the table.

Sometimes, slices of fresh oranges accompanied them.

But on the rare occasion, when I was very, very lucky, there would be almond cookies, too.

With their splotchy, golden cracked top that had a whole almond nestled at the very center, they were crisp, crumbly, and melted in your mouth.

“Chinese Walnut Cookies” are reminiscent of those. They are more petite in size, and nudge out the almonds for ground walnuts and toasted sesame seed oil instead. Consider them Chinese almond cookies’ more radical cousin, and every bit as delicious and satisfying.

The recipe comes from the cookbook, “Crumbs” (Phaidon, 2024), of which I received a review copy. It is the work of Ben Mims, a food writer, cookbook author, and former cooking columnist for the Los Angeles Times.

It is a breathtaking volume of 300 cookie recipes from around the world. So much so, you’ll wonder if you’ll ever need another cookie cookbook again.

The book takes you on a journey with recipes arranged by global region that include fascinating cultural and historical information about each one. There’s “Atta Biscuits,” crisp, whole wheat cardamom-scented cookies beloved in India to enjoy with chai; “Guava-Filled Butter Cookies” that are a mainstay at weddings in Brazil; “Vanilla Pretzel-Shaped Cookies” that are popular in Germany; “Licorice and Chocolate Meringue Cookies” that are a Christmas tradition in Iceland; “Sesame Butter Cookies” from Sudan that are made with yogurt and clarified butter for a touch of tang and softness; and so many more.

They have a lovely toasty, roasty, nutty flavor.
They have a lovely toasty, roasty, nutty flavor.

Mims writes that “Chinese Walnut Cookies” were often made with rendered pork lard. He swaps that out for butter instead to make it more in line with a confectionery.

The butter gets creamed with sugar, egg yolks for added richness, and toasted sesame oil. Do use the best and freshest toasted sesame oil you can find, and not one that’s been languishing in the back of your pantry for who knows how long only to turn stale.

In goes flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and toasted, ground walnuts.

Form the dough into small balls. Lightly press your thumb into the center of each one, just like you would do if making thumbprint cookies. Next, brush on beaten egg yolk mixed with a little water, which will give the cookies their characteristic shiny, yellow-orange top. Sprinkle a few black sesame seeds into each depression, then bake.

Although the recipe said it makes 24 cookies, I ended up with 19, so I adjusted that amount in the recipe below.

These cookies are buttery, barely sweet, and have a very toasty, nutty taste. There’s a nostalgic simpleness and wholesomeness to them. They are perfect partners with a cup of hot tea to revel in the Year of the Snake, which slithers in on Wednesday.

Crisp, crumbly, and melt-in-your-mouth good.
Crisp, crumbly, and melt-in-your-mouth good.

Chinese Walnut Cookies

(Makes 19 to 24 cookies)

2/3 cup (80 grams) walnuts

1 1/2 cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 stick (4 ounces/115 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 egg yolks

Egg wash: 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water

Black sesame seeds, for sprinkling

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/ Gas Mark 4). Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Spread the walnuts out on a single layer on one of the baking sheets and bake until lightly toasted and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer the nuts to a cutting board and let cool completely. Reserve the baking sheet. Using a food processor, process the walnuts until very finely ground.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

In a large bowl, with a hand mixer, combine the butter, sugar, sesame oil, and egg yolks and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the flour mixture and walnuts and stir until a dough forms and there are no dry patches of flour remaining.

Using a 1/2-ounce (1-tablespoon) ice cream scoop, portion the dough and roll into balls. Arrange them on the prepared baking sheets, spaced at least 2 inches apart. Using the pad of your thumb, lightly press down on each dough ball to make a depression. Lightly brush the top of each cookie with some of the egg wash and sprinkle the center with a pinch of sesame seeds.

Baked until golden brown and dry to the touch in the center, 15 to 20 minutes, switching the racks and rotating the baking sheets front to back halfway through.

Transfer the baking sheets to wire racks. Let the cookies cool on the pans for 1 minute, then transfer them to the racks to cool completely.

Note: Other popular variations include peanuts and cashews. If you want to make the cookies with those nuts, simply swap in the same amount of them for the walnuts.

Adapted from “Crumbs” by Ben Mims

More Lunar New Year Treats to Enjoy: Two Different Chinese Almond Cookies

And: Almond “Tofu” with Fruit Cocktail

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