Merced, CA — This San Joaquin Valley town has long been known as the “Gateway to Yosemite” from as far back as when stagecoaches and the Central Pacific Railroad turned it into a major transportation hub. Nowadays, most folks make the journey between the two by car, which will take close to 2 hours (if Highway 140 is open).

As many times as I’ve visited Yosemite, I had never stopped in Merced. But I had the opportunity to do just that last month when I was invited for a stay as a guest of the landmark El Capitan Hotel.

Opened in 2021 after three years of construction, it may be downtown Merced’s newest hotel to open, but it wisely maintains links to its history.

The original El Capitan was built a block away in 1872 as a waystop for travelers continuing on to Yosemite. In 1900, however it was razed by the railroad company to make way for a railroad stop. It was later rebuilt at its current location of M and Main Streets in 1912, and restored after a fire ravaged it in the 1930s.

The 114-room boutique hotel is largely new construction, but connects with the original annex in the back. Wander back there, and you’ll even find an antique furniture piece from the early 1900s with slots that once held room keys and written messages.

The El Capitan’s decor is meant to evoke its proximity to breathtaking Yosemite and its connection to trains. It’s not cookie-cutter at all, but rather whimsically stylish and artsy. Although it’s not part of the Kimpton Group of hotels, it’s very much designed in the vein of one.

If you’re staying overnight, opt for a room that’s not facing Main Street for a quieter time. We were fortunate to stay in a spacious junior suite overlooking the lovely courtyard that’s festooned with string-lights and a retractable awning.

A backdrop of towering trees behind the king bed makes you feel as if you are glamping. There are a table and chairs to enjoy a cup of tea, plus a sofa with ottomans to curl up on while wrapped in one of the thick robes.

The hotel features three options for dining: Native Son, a cafe to grab-and-go or linger on your laptop with a matcha latte and blueberry muffin; the fine-dining Rainbird; and the casual Mainzer, located a few yards down the block in a refurbished theater.

With Merced College and the University of California at Merced so close by, Rainbird’s dining room with its modern farmhouse vibe is a popular destination for its administrators and visiting faculty.

The menu is a la carte, with products from local farms — the names of which can be found listed on the hotel’s website. If you are used to Bay Area sticker-shock, you will be amazed at how relatively affordable and sizeable the portions are of many of the dishes here.

For instance, the half size ($9) of the chilled seasonal ingredient salad was a generous hearty mix of roasted Brussels sprouts, butternut squash cubes, sweet potato cubes, cannellini beans, crisp quinoa, and pomegranate arils, all tossed in a honey-Dijon vinaigrette. It was so sizeable and filling that I ended up boxing up half of it to store in the suite’s fridge to enjoy for lunch the next day.

The Mediterranean platter ($20) was a plentiful spread of hummus, tzatziki, gravlax, cucumbers, olives, feta, crisp greens, and grilled pita. An especially nice touch were the crispy chickpeas strewn atop the hummus that provided a crunchy counterpoint to the creamy spread.

For my entree, I much enjoyed the Muscovy Farms duck confit ($28) finished with a red wine reduction. The duck was was every bit as succulent and crisp as it should be. Alongside was a creamy parsnip puree, an endive-frisee salad, and a whole honey-poached pear with a hint of cinnamon. I only wish the pear was warm rather than chilled, but that’s a small quibble.

My husband opted for the Harris Ranch boneless ribeye ($49) that was massive at 12 ounces, and came complete with crispy potatoes and thick roasted asparagus.

It’s a miracle that we had room for dessert, but we did. Plus, who can resist something called “Apple Cider Donut Moon Pie” ($9)? Two cake-like donut domes are sandwiched between a thick filling of brown sugar cream cheese, then drizzled with caramel and served with berries. It’s heady with cinnamon and a big taste of nostalgia that befits this place.

The next morning, we were back at Rainbird for a sit-down breakfast.

Ricotta pancakes ($16) are outstanding — fluffy, and finished with a shower of powdered sugar, plus blueberry compote, pistachios, Meyer lemon zest, whipped butter, and maple syrup.

My husband’s Spanish omelet ($16.50) was cooked more well-done than he would have preferred, but it was quite flavorful stuffed with linguica, Manchego, and arugula. It’s a substantial plate that came with greens, roasted sweet potatoes, and house-made sourdough.

That night we dined at the hotel’s Mainzer restaurant, housed in an early 1900s movie theater. Opened in 2021 after three years of refurbishment, it’s an impressive restoration that nods playfully to its origins as a theater — from its marquee out front to the lobby decor complete with old-school signage.

There’s still an actual theater inside, done up with sofas and wingback chairs, that shows movies once a week for $7 or sometimes even for free. Another part of the theater features a stage that welcomes small bands and DJs.

If you show up early, you can kill time by playing skeeball or foosball — for free.

Take a seat in the restaurant at one of the tables that features a laminated checker/chess board, and your server will provide the game pieces if you want to play.

Or provide your credit card to receive an electronic card to use at the help-yourself tap wall that features more than 20 beer taps. Tap your card at one, and fill your glass with as little or as much as you like. It’s a fun way to try several different beers in one outing.

The Icelandic White Ale had a wonderful roasty quality, while the Ginger Agave was deeply aromatic with the rhizome.

The Colossal Onion Ring Tower ($13) is a sight to behold with big, thick, crisp rings piled high like a kids’ stacking rings toy. Seasoned with garlic and Parmesan, and with mild jalapeno aioli to dip into, these are perfect for any onion ring lover to go to town on. Best yet, $1 from each order to Ace Overcomers, a non-profit that helps teens and adults overcome childhood trauma.

Chicken wings ($17) arrive hot and very peppery tasting from Calabrian chili oil and espelette. Puckery pickled celery and cooling house-made ranch come with.

The Margherita flatbread ($16) was an embellished version complete with not only mozzarella and San Marzano tomato sauce, but burrata, basil pesto, and burst grape tomatoes that had a concentrated flavor from the heat of the oven, lending them far more flavor than they would normally have at this time of year.

The Reuben ($18) could have used more sauerkraut but was satisfying with tender meat and melted Swiss. It comes with kettle chips or fries, but you can sub in a side salad instead that’s pretty ample in its own right.

Next time you’re in the area, be sure to check out the El Capitan and its restaurants, all of which have preserved the past while also injecting a fresh modern spin to downtown Merced.

More: A Visit to Merced, Part II: Hi-Fi Wine and Vista Ranch