It says it all that I’ve happily made “Pasta to Make When You’re Not Near the Sea (But Wish You Were)” three times already.

And it’s not because I’m longing to be near the water.

It’s simply because it’s such a thoroughly satisfying pasta dish that’s easy enough to make on a whim.

The recipe is from “Le Sud” (Chronicle Books, 2024), of which I received a review copy.

Rebekah Peppler, a Paris-based writer and stylist, wrote the cookbook to highlight recipes from Provence- Alpes-Cote D’Azur, the southern region of France where the French throng for holidays. The 12,000-square-mile region is bounded in the north by the Southern Alps, to the south by the French Mediterranean, the east by Italy, and the west by the Rhone River. As the book illustrates with beautiful photos of the crystalline sea, it’s a postcard come to life.

The breezy recipes include “Martini Provencal,” “Pastis Chicken,” “The (Chickpea) Picnic Salad,” and “Strawberry Gateau.”

What makes this pasta so good is the combination of briny ingredients — anchovies, sardines, capers, and preserved lemons — together with an ample amount of butter. The former provides a deep taste of umami from multiple sources, while the latter adds a velvety richness that rounds out everything nicely. It’s like a conductor assembling together horns, strings, and percussion to create delicious harmony.

Definitely use smoked sardines in this dish, if you can, because they will add another level of savoriness for even more profound flavor.

In the time it takes to boil the pasta, you can pretty much make the rest of the dish. Simply saute the anchovies with garlic, along with the sardines, capers, preserved lemons, and red pepper flakes. Add the pasta to the pan, along with some of the reserved pasta cooking water. Stir in the butter, continuing to cook until it emulsifies and creates a sauce that clings to each noodle. Finish with a squirt of lemon juice, and a shower of fresh parsley, and grated Parmigiano-Regginao.

This dish has citrus brightness, concentrated seafood flavor, a hint of smokiness, and just enough butteriness without being overly heavy tasting.

Enjoy a forkful and you can almost feel the salt spray on your face.

Pasta to Make When You’re Not Near the Sea (But Wish You Were)

(Serves 6)

1 pound dried long, flat pasta, such as tagliatelle, fettuccine, or pappardelle

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

6 oil-packed anchovy fillets, finely chopped

Two (5-ounce) tins sardines, preferably smoked, packed in oil, and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed, drained, and finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved (Meyer) lemons, store-bought or homemade

Red pepper flakes

6 tablespoons unsalted European butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 cup tightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped, plus more for serving

Flaky sea salt

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

Add the pasta to a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, 2 to 3 minutes fewer than package directions (it should still have a slight crunch in the center). Drain, reserving 2 cups of the pasta cooking liquid.

While the pasta is cooking, in a large skillet set over medium heat, add the oil, garlic, and anchovies. Cook until the garlic is soft and pale golden but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the sardines, capers, preserved lemons, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more. Stir in the drained pasta and 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta cooking liquid. Add the butter and continue to cook, stirring and adding more pasta cooking liquid as needed until the sauce coats the pasta, about 4 minutes. Stir in the fresh lemon juice and parsley, season with salt to taste, and serve with Parmigiano-Reggiano and additional parsley.

From “Le Sud” by Rebekah Peppler

Another Tinned Sardine Recipe to Enjoy: Sardine Rillettes

For Anchovy Lovers: Extra-Anchovy Pasta with Kale

And: Grated Fresh Tomato Spaghetti with Anchovies

And: Cauliflower Salad with Eggs and Anchovies

And: Celery and Apple Salad with Pounded Almonds, Anchovies, Parmesan, and Parsley

And: Raw Kale Salad with Anchovy-Date Dressing

And: Sauteed Fillet of Halibut with Fennel and White Anchovies

And: Roasted Eggplant with Anchovies and Oregano by Yotam Ottolenghi