A Visit to the New Il Mercato de Che Fico
If you’re a fan of the food at Che Fico in Menlo Park and San Francisco, you’ll be glad to know you can now easily tote some of those same specialty Italian dishes home to enjoy.
That’s thanks to the new Il Mercato de Che Fico by owners Chef David Nayfeld and Matt Brewer, that opened last month across the way from Che Fico Parco in Menlo Park’s Springline mixed-use development.
Chef Chris Timm, who oversees the market, was kind enough to show me around and let me sample some of the goods on a recent afternoon.
The gourmet market’s entrance is right on El Camino Real, so it’s easy to access, especially if you snag street parking or opt for the development’s underground garage that’s patrolled by a robot sentry no less.
Focaccia is baked fresh every day at 6 a.m., and gets delivered to the mercato by 10 a.m., ready to be sold by the slab or in sandwiches, all sold by weight. It’s the same focaccia served in the restaurant, too.
The vibrant chopped salad available by the pound in the deli case? That’s also the exact salad on the menu at the restaurant steps away. Same with the salad dressings, bone broths, extruded pastas, jarred pasta sauces, and packages of lasagna Bolognese for two, all packaged in the grab-and-go refrigerator case and ready to be cooked or heated up at home.
There’s an entire freezer case of hand-spun gelato, also served at the restaurant, in flavors such as mint chip, pistachio, gianduja, and lemon sorbetto.
What’s more, the gelatos were created by panetone savant Roy Shvartzapel of From Roy, using a specialized Italian machine that incorporates very little air, resulting in a smooth, densely creamy texture and intense flavor.
Look for a walk-up gelato scoop window to open sometime next month.
Shvartzapel and Nayfeld are longtime friends, so it’s not surprising that there’s a huge display of the From Roy pannetones at the front of the store.
The wine section skews Italian, of course, and bottles were chosen by Che Fico’s wine director Jason Alexander. Other shelves hold a curated variety of olive oils, tinned seafood, and snacks, many imported.
There’s a dry-age fridge to age prime rib and pork chops, 21 to 28 days; a seafood case stocked with largely local catch; packages of Che Fico coconut macaroons flavored with bright passion fruit; loaves of sourdough bread from San Francisco’s Rize Up Bakery that also get used for deli sandwiches; and cans of Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes, organically grown Northern California ones produced in conjunction with Chris Bianco, chef-founder of the legendary Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix and Los Angeles. These are the same canned tomatoes that form the foundation of many of Che Fico’s sauces, too.
The fresh produce area brims with asparagus from Zuckerman’s Farm, huge and shockingly sweet early strawberries from Moss Landing, and other local farms including Star Route, Full Belly, and Dirty Girl.
The focaccia sandwiches have been the runaway hit so far, with the store selling 25 to 35 of those alone each day, Timm said.
I tried two of them, both priced at $15.99 per pound. First, La Mortazza, filled with mortadella, fresh mozzarella, basil, house-made pesto, and tomatoes with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. The focaccia is chewy and pillowy, and the olive oil soaks into it all, making it even more delicious. This sandwich is explodes with sweet porky goodness.
The Y’At is similar, but meatier, with mortadella, sopressata, rosemary ham, and provolone. The mayo and tapenade on it are both made in-house, too. Rich and hearty tasting, it has the lovely taste of rosemary shining through.
The sausage and broccoli rabe lasagna ($19.99) only needed heating in a 400°F oven for 20 minutes or so before enjoying at home. It is phenomenal. The first thing you notice is how supple and gossamer the pasta sheets are. You know immediately that this isn’t made with dried, boxed noodles, but fresh ones with a deft artisan touch. Filled with crumbles of sausage, peppery broccoli rabe, mozzarella, tomato paste, and chili flakes, it boasts deep, developed flavor with a hit of spice.
The mercato doesn’t have any seating indoors or outdoors. However, Springline’s plaza has seats outside here and there, so on a nice day, take a load off and enjoy a sandwich — or gelato cone (soon) — al fresco on the spot. But just be sure to take some of that lasagna home to enjoy later — or live to regret it.
More: Dining at Che Fico Parco Menlo Park
And: From Roy’s Panettone