Watching the Olympics these past few weeks sure made me long to be in Paris.

Fortunately, San Francisco’s Routier more than satisfied my yearning with its comforting French bistro-like fare with California aplomb.

Audaciously opened during the height of the pandemic with only food to-go, Routier has grown into a warm, cozy dining spot, the type every neighborhood would be so lucky to have.

That it not only launched but overcame such a tumultuous time is a testament to its owners: Chef John Paul Carmona, former chef de cuisine of the former Michelin powerhouse Manresa in Los Gatos; Pastry Chef Belinda Leong, who also owns B. Patisserie a few steps away and B. On The Go, the kitty-corner sandwich shop; and Michel Suas, co-owner of B. Patisserie and founder of the San Francisco Baking Institute.

On a Friday night, the corner restaurant with windows all around, was humming with diners galore in the dining room done up in shades of blue.

With a full liquor license, there are seven specialty cocktails. Or opt for a glass of 2022 Domaine Fredavelle Grenache Blend Rosé ($14), bright and lively with the taste of raspberries.

The “Snacks” side of the menu makes for a fun way to share a few noshes with friends. Given the baking pedigree of the owners, the baguette ($4.50) is a must-order. Chewy inside with a thin crisp crust, slices come with a crock of buerre diable, an herby butter with a spicy lilt.

The wild boar pate with green peppercorns ($15) is a thick slice arranged atop a cutting board with grainy mustard and cornichons. Chilled with a rim of fat, the pate had a slightly coarse yet smooth texture with a rich meatiness. With a bottle of wine, it’s exactly what you long to have at a French picnic.

The Dungeness crab pave ($22 for six pieces) is a one-bite wonder that’s one of the most popular starters. After all, who can resist a cube of thinly sliced potatoes baked with a lavish amount of butter and cream, then topped with crab meat enfolded in a creamy spiced mayo?

Thin slices of local albacore sashimi go summery with slices of juicy Flavor King pluot, along with a pinch of cayenne.

In addition to a la carte items, each night Routier also offers a $69 three-course prix fixe. If you fancy the entree on it, but would rather not be limited to the prix fixe, you can also order it a la carte.

That’s what I did to enjoy the masterful duck leg confit ($40) entree with its crisp skin and succulent flesh, served with chunks of carrots, sunchokes, and strawberries that added that sweet-tangy fruity component to which duck takes so well.

You’ll find that the protein sizes for the entrees are quite sizeable for the price. That was especially true of the lamb shoulder ($37), braised, pulled off the bone, then refashioned into a tidy thick slab served with Early Girl tomato butter. It needs no knife. It’s the perfect hearty and comforting dish on a cool San Francisco evening, only done with a whole lot more finesse. It was finished with cranberry beans, charred cherry tomatoes, baby eggplant, and a dollop of horseradish gremolata.

Gushingly juicy and tender, the pork collar chop ($40) arrives pre-sliced to make sharing easy if you are going that route. It’s glazed in a cherry sauce that’s subtle in sweetness and set beside meaty romano beans.

We also shared a side of Fairy Tale eggplant tempura ($15) served with a creamy charred shallot and lime sauce. The slender, 3-inch-long eggplants had a sturdier batter than traditional tempura yet it was shatteringly crisp.

When a restaurant is co-owned by a celebrated pastry chef, you simply must save room for dessert. Calories be damned because the dark chocolate mousse ($14) is simply too dreamy to pass up. Served with a fluff of chantilly cream and coffee cookie crumbles, it’s as rich and deeply chocolatey as you imagine, but also surprisingly light and airy in texture.

The “Napoleon” ($14) changes up with the seasons. Right now, it’s a showcase for poached peach slices alongside whipped almond mascarpone showered in pistachios. The foundation was not merely plain puff pastry, but sheets that had been sugared and baked to a crackingly crunch almost like a flattened palmier.

Dinner at Routier. Lunch at B. on the Go. Pastries galore at B.Patisserie. All a hop, skip, and waddle away. That’s a trifecta if there ever was one.

More: A Visit to B. Patisserie

And: A Visit to B. on the Go