When a craving for cornbread hit one day, Los Angeles recipe developer Jess Damuck didn’t run to the store upon realizing she was out of cornmeal. Nope, instead she reached for masa harina instead.

And in the process created the very best version of cornbread.

Moist, fluffy yet somehow crumbly, “Masa Harina Cornbread” exudes deep corn taste like there’s no tomorrow.

The recipe is from her new cookbook, “Health Nut” (Abrams), of which I received a review copy.

Don’t let the title scare you, as this isn’t a rigid cookbook filled with good-for-you recipes that aren’t necessarily the most satisfying. Instead, Damuck, a former culinary producer for Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, has assembled more than 100 recipes that make use of real butter, real cheese, and whatever type of milk you prefer.

Tuck into “Crispy Rice and Salmon Bowl with Quick Pickles and Greens,” “Charred Broccoli Salad with Almonds and Spicy Green Goddess,” “One-Pan Greek Lemon Chicken and Potatoes,” and “Sesame Spelt Banana Bread.”

Why does masa harina make a superior cornbread? Both it and cornmeal, of course, come from corn. While cornmeal is ground dried corn kernels, masa harina is made by soaking dried corn kernels in an alkaline solution (nixtamalization). That softens the corn, which is then hulled and ground.

Cornmeal is coarser while masa harina is finer, and more powdery smooth. Both taste like corn, but masa harina is more deeply corn-y and savory with an almost subtle smoky undertone. If you taste masa harina out of the bag — which I did — it will evoke the taste of a fresh, handmade corn tortilla.

For this recipe, add a stick of butter to a cast-iron pan, and put it into a preheated oven just until it melts. Pour out into a mixing bowl all but 2 tablespoons of the butter, which you’ll used to grease the pan. With the remaining butter in the bowl, stir in honey, milk and eggs.

Stir together masa harina, a little whole wheat flour, baking powder and salt, then stir in the wet ingredients.

Pour everything into the prepared cast-iron skillet and slide into the oven, and soon your kitchen will be liberally perfumed with the scent of toasted corn.

The cornbread bakes up with a crackly top and a dusty-golden color. Serve warm with butter, a sprinkle of salt, and maybe a drizzle of honey, if you like.

I know some purists will say that honey or sugar have no place in cornbread. But the mere 1/4 cup of honey never veers this cornbread into cake territory; it just amplifies the natural sweetness of the corn.

Speaking of which, this cornbread just explodes with intense corn taste.

Damuck writes in her cookbook that she’ll never make cornbread any other way now. Try it once, and you might find yourself reaching all the time for the masa harina, too.

Masa Harina Cornbread
(Makes one 10-inch round bread)

Dairy:

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, or vegan butter, plus more for serving

1 1/2 cups milk, or nut milk, store-bought or homemade

Protein:

2 large eggs

Pantry:

1 1/2 cups (200 grams) masa harina

1/2 cup (76 grams) whole-wheat flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup (60 milliliters) honey, plus more for serving

Flaky salt, for finishing

Preheat the oven to 425°F (225°C).

Prep the batter: Add 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and transfer it to the oven, just to melt, 3 to 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 cups masa harina, 1/2 cup whole-wheat flour, 1 tablespoon baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt.

Carefully transfer all but 2 tablespoons of the melted butter into another large heatproof bowl. Add 1/4 cup honey and whisk until melted and fully combined. Mix in 1 1/2 cups milk. When cool to the touch, add 2 eggs and whisk everything until well combined.

Pour the wet batter into the dry ingredients and mix to combine.

Bake the bread: Swirl the remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter around in the skillet to make sure the sides are coated. Transfer the batter into the pan and smooth the top. Bake until golden brown and fragrant, 18 to 20 minutes.

Serve: Serve warm with more butter and honey, and a good sprinkle of flaky salt. Store in an airtight container for u to 2 days; reheat in a 350°F (175° oven or pop in the microwave before serving.

From “Health Nut” by Jess Damuck

Cornbread Recipes With Cornmeal: Popcorn Cornbread

And: Spago’s Honey-Glazed Corn Bread