Pedro’s 2.0 in Los Gatos

What happens when a Mexican restaurant that’s more than half a century old undergoes a 9-month overhaul?
Wonderful things, as in the case of Pedro’s in downtown Los Gatos.
Not only did it get a slightly fancier name, Pedro’s Cocina & Cocktails, but also a new stylish interior, as well as a former fine-dining chef in the form of Julio Aguilera, who hails from San Francisco’s Michelin two-starred Saison.
The Saison connection makes absolute sense when you realize that both that restaurant, along with Pedro’s in Los Gatos and Pedro’s in Santa Clara, are co-owned by Silicon Valley entrepreneur Jag Kapoor.
But don’t worry that your neighborhood Mexican restaurant has gone all chi chi. The Los Gatos restaurant may have gotten a revamp late last year, but it remains a comfortable, casual place serving many of its classic favorites along with some more updated fare.

Diners seem to be embracing the new look and menu, as evidenced by the steady stream coming through the door on a rainy and windy Thursday night when I dined. Although my husband and I paid our tab, the chef sent out a couple dishes on the house for us to try.
The expansive restaurant is divided into several rooms, each done up in soothing mauve, peach, and green tones. There’s a large u-shaped bar with a peaked canopy surrounded by rattan chairs. With plenty of chic, rounded banquettes, the two main dining rooms are named “Enrique” and “Romero” for two former managers who recently retired after 50 years.


Settle in with an orchid-garnished sangria roja ($14) that’s not too sweet and tastes of cozy cinnamon. For more drama, don’t miss the Smoking Oaxacan Old Fashioned ($19) that arrives at the table in head-turning fashion. A server comes bearing a sealed glass box engulfed in wisps of smoke. You’re instructed to open the door to take out the glass that contains the gussied-up Old Fashioned made with smoky mezcal, tequila, tangy passion fruit, and a garnish of a Luxardo dark cherry wrapped in an orange peel.


The guacamole ($14) is rich and chunky, and comes finished with a nutty tasting pistachio salsa macha that adds not only a little crunch but an earthy, fruity touch of heat. Go to town on it with the thin, crisp tortilla chips.


The Mexican wedge salad ($16) is large enough to share with chilled, crisp iceberg covered in cherry tomatoes, cucumber, chunks of jack cheese, slivers of pickled red onion, fried tortilla strips, and a stepped-up ranch dressing given a grassy, spicy depth from jalapeno.


The hamachi crudo tostadas ($21 for three to a plate) are irresistible with their fresh taste, enlivened with plenty of lime juice and jalapeno.
The ceviche de atun ($22) brings shingled slabs of tuna dotted with a spicy pepita salsa macha and the surprise of soy sauce that brings out the umami taste of the fish while adding a briny sweetness, too.
The ceviche comes with large heirloom corn tortilla chips that are a real treat. Like the tortillas that form the foundation of the restaurant’s tacos, these are fashioned from heirloom Mexican corn masa made by Berkeley’s Bolita. Deep yellow and purple-blue, they possess an incredibly deep roasted corn flavor.


Speaking of tacos, the fish ones ($19 for two, but the chef added a third one to our plate) feature large pieces of beer-battered rock cod on those delicious blue-gray tortillas with pico de gallo, shredded cabbage and a touch of aioli. The fish was golden and crisp, but could have used just a touch of salt, as it seemed to lack seasoning.
For an additional $6, you can add rice and beans of your choice. I went with the black beans, creamy in texture and earthy in taste, that went well with the fluffy tomato paste-tinged grains.

For big appetites, there’s the combination plate, in which you can choose three items with rice and beans for $27. My husband went with two enchiladas — one chicken, the other beef, with one finished in red sauce, and the other in green sauce. It’s total comfort food, with the zingy green sauce made with tomatillos especially satisfying. His third item was a crispy chicken taco. Think your Taco Bell staple but a much more pleasing version.
For dessert, the moist tres leches ($14) gets a fanciful top of fresh grapefruit segments arranged just so with squiggles of whipped cream, a drizzle of sweet dulce de leche, and a dusting of cinnamon.

The popcorn flan ($14) was my favorite. It boasted a rich eggy taste with a dense custard that was smooth through and through. Drizzled with caramel, the popcorn was a fun touch that added the perfect hint of salt, too.
In Silicon Valley, new models don’t always mean improvement in the ways we like. The 2.0 version of Pedro’s in Los Gatos, however, definitely succeeds all around.
Find out more about how owner Jag Kapoor immigrated to the Bay Area at age 19 with all of $3.50 in his pocket, then worked his way up to owning a slew of diverse businesses, including Pedro’s and Saison. It’s all in my story in the San Francisco Chronicle Food section.