Author Archives: foodgal

Chef Carlos Altamirano Opens Eponymous Restaurant in San Francisco

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A whole fried diablo "devil fish'' at Altamirano.
A whole fried diablo “devil fish” at Altamirano.

He may already have seven restaurants in San Francisco and the East Bay, but when Chef Carlos Altamirano opened his eighth one two weeks ago, he made this one stand out that much more by anointing it with his own surname.

Altamirano debuted in San Francisco’s Nopa neighborhood to serve contemporary Peruvian fare with California sensibilities. It’s quite the achievement for the Lima-born chef who upon immigrating to San Francisco, talked his way into his first restaurant job as a dishwasher, then quickly rose to line cook.

I had an opportunity to check out the new spot when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant last week.

The entrance to the restaurant.
The entrance to the restaurant.
The large bar area.
The large bar area.

Wood warms up the restaurant with its driftwood sculptural pieces and live-edge host stand, while an angled glass wall the bisects the bar and dining room is meant to evoke an aerial view of Peru’s ancient ruins. Custom restroom doors are laser-cut with designs of Inca masks. There’s a stylish covered outdoor dining patio, too.

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Discover What’s Sure To Be Your New Favorite Cornbread — Made with Masa Harina

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Ditch the cornmeal for masa harina instead for this outstanding cornbread.
Ditch the cornmeal for masa harina instead for this outstanding cornbread.

When a craving for cornbread hit one day, Los Angeles recipe developer Jess Damuck didn’t run to the store upon realizing she was out of cornmeal. Nope, instead she reached for masa harina instead.

And in the process created the very best version of cornbread.

Moist, fluffy yet somehow crumbly, “Masa Harina Cornbread” exudes deep corn taste like there’s no tomorrow.

The recipe is from her new cookbook, “Health Nut” (Abrams), of which I received a review copy.

Don’t let the title scare you, as this isn’t a rigid cookbook filled with good-for-you recipes that aren’t necessarily the most satisfying. Instead, Damuck, a former culinary producer for Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, has assembled more than 100 recipes that make use of real butter, real cheese, and whatever type of milk you prefer.

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Enter The Wild

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California bluefin tuna with ponzu and bonito at The Wild.
California bluefin tuna with ponzu and bonito at The Wild.

Something wild has happened at 201 Spear St. in San Francisco.

The space that housed Gozu restaurant for the past five years was renamed in August to The Wild.

Chef-Owner Marc Zimmerman, who also owns San Francisco’s Yokai, is still in charge. The layout of the striking, black-box dining room with seats circling the perimeter of a live-fire open kitchen is still intact. But the menu has shifted, giving him and his team, which includes Chef de Cuisine Peggy Tan and Pastry Chef Mark Lieuw, more liberties with both service and dishes. Even the libations that once touted an impressive collection of Japanese whiskies have now shifted to include many Calvados and Armagnacs.

Previously, Gozu was laser-focused on Japanese A5 Wagyu, and using every bit of that luxurious beef — from flesh to fat to bones to tendons — in uncanny ways. In contrast, The Wild’s current menu is noticeably absent of Wagyu. In fact, the restaurant’s dry-aging fridge that used to hold slabs of Wagyu now house Liberty Farms ducks.

“It feels fresh,” says Zimmerman about the change. “It gives us the ability to stretch more.”

Chef-Owner Marc Zimmerman.
Chef-Owner Marc Zimmerman.
A glass of Evening Land Seven Springs Chardonnay while taking in the view of the kitchen.
A glass of Evening Land Seven Springs Chardonnay while taking in the view of the kitchen.

Diners seem to be embracing it all, too. Zimmerman acknowledges that Gozu’s use of Wagyu in nearly every dish may have intimidated some and even turned off others. Now, The Wild has attracted more first-time diners, as well as regulars who come in twice a week for the a la carte or the $130 five-course tasting menu.

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Learn How to Make Franklin Barbecue’s Smoked Chicken

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A magnificent smoked chicken from the master of smoking.
A magnificent smoked chicken from the master of smoking.

I’ve yet to make the life-changing pilgrimage to Austin to endure the hours-long line for the much-lauded fare at Franklin Barbecue.

But at least now, I can say that I’ve made owner Aaron Franklin’s “Smoked Chicken” at home — and swooned over the results.

It’s actually an easy recipe that results in some of the juiciest chicken around, kissed by smoke and infused subtly with tangy, sweet, peppery, and piquant notes. In short, it’s outstanding.

It’s from his book, “Franklin Smoke” (Ten Speed Press, 2023), of which I received a review copy.

A James Beard Foundation “Best Chef” Award winner who has garnered every major barbecue honor around, Franklin wrote the book with New York-based James Beard Award-winning writer Jordan MacKay.

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San Carlos’ Saffron Gets A Menu Redo

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Chicken paratha wrap, one of the items on the new "Bites'' portion of the menu at Saffron San Carlos.
Chicken paratha wrap, one of the items on the new “Bites” portion of the menu at Saffron San Carlos.

Think tapas — Indian-style.

That’s what husband-and-wife owners Ajay Walia and Reena Miglani had in mind when they revamped the menu at their Saffron restaurant in downtown San Carlos three weeks ago.

Regulars shouldn’t fret, as their favorites are still there, only portioned in smaller sizes so that diners can try a greater variety of dishes now.

Want to enjoy a pav slider, but you’re vegetarian and your dining companion is not? Now, you can order them by the piece, so that everyone gets what they crave.

Indeed, the restaurant has added a sizeable “Saffron’s Bites” section to the menu, that allows you to do just that.

The exterior of the restaurant.
The exterior of the restaurant.
The parklet for outdoor dining.
The parklet for outdoor dining.
The dining room.
The dining room.

I had a chance to try the new menu when I was invited as a guest of the restaurant last week. In fact, Executive Chef Vivek Tamhane was amenable to making some of the “bites” even smaller so that I could try that much more.

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