Growing up in San Francisco, I remember many a meal at a Chinese restaurant that would conclude with a plate of fortune cookies set down in the center of the table.

Sometimes, slices of fresh oranges accompanied them.

But on the rare occasion, when I was very, very lucky, there would be almond cookies, too.

With their splotchy, golden cracked top that had a whole almond nestled at the very center, they were crisp, crumbly, and melted in your mouth.

“Chinese Walnut Cookies” are reminiscent of those. They are more petite in size, and nudge out the almonds for ground walnuts and toasted sesame seed oil instead. Consider them Chinese almond cookies’ more radical cousin, and every bit as delicious and satisfying.

The recipe comes from the cookbook, “Crumbs” (Phaidon, 2024), of which I received a review copy. It is the work of Ben Mims, a food writer, cookbook author, and former cooking columnist for the Los Angeles Times.

It is a breathtaking volume of 300 cookie recipes from around the world. So much so, you’ll wonder if you’ll ever need another cookie cookbook again.