Category Archives: Meat

Spice Kit — A Sandwich Shop with Quite the Pedigree

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Eat one pork belly bun at Spice Kit, and you're sure to want another.

Spice Kit in San Francisco’s South of Market neighborhood is not your average sandwich joint.

Not with its state-of-the-art sous vide equipment in the kitchen.

And not with a founder, who used to work at the French Laundry in Yountville, and a chef, who hails from the celebrated Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco.

The duo, which opened Spice Kit two months ago, near the Hotel Vitale, is elevating the bold, irresistible flavors of Korean, Chinese and Vietnamese street food to a higher level with organic tofu, organic greens and high-quality meats. They even make their own paté in-house for the banh mi sammies.

Fred Tang, right, and Will Pacio, left, of Spice Kit.

Chef Fred Tang and Founder Will Pacio, who not only cooked at the French Laundry, but also Thomas Keller’s outpost in New York, Per Se, invited me in recently to try their offerings. (Full disclosure: Will is the brother of one of my former San Jose Mercury News colleagues, fashion writer Nerissa Pacio, who now does the stylish blog, NerissasNotebook.)

How could I refuse? Especially when French Laundry chef de cuisine alums, Corey Lee of the new, nearby Benu restaurant in San Francisco, and Ron Siegel of the Dining Room, have already been in for their fill? In fact, here’s a pic of Siegel placing his order at the counter.

The fast-casual spot offers salads, banh mi and ssams (Korean wraps) with your choice of five-spice chicken, beef short ribs, roasted pork or tofu. The prices are higher than your typical Mom-and-Pop Vietnamese cafe, but the most expensive item is only $7.95. And the caliber of ingredients and cooking really shines through.

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A Doggone Tasty Time at One Market

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San Francisco’s One Market restaurant — steps from the Hyatt Regency at the Embarcadero — can be a fancy-shmancy place that has hosted celebs such as David Beckham and his wife, Victoria (aka Posh), and featured such high-brow fare as prix fixe dinners centered entirely around a particular artisan-raised animal.

But it also knows how to have fun.

Just witness its newest addition to the menu — a foot-long hot dog. Technically, it’s a little over 12 inches. Served on a house-baked poppy-seed bun, this mouthful of a wiener comes with mustard, house-made sweet pickles, spiced tomato jam and sauerkraut. To wash it all down, you also get your choice of one of seven cold draught beers.

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Slide into SliderBar Cafe in Palo Alto

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After launching Mantra, the contemporary Indian restaurant in downtown Palo Alto four years ago, what was the next logical move for Ashwani Dhawan?

To open a restaurant that specializes in itty-bitty American hamburgers, of course.

Say what?

Yes, the Indo-American, techie-turned-restaurateur opened SliderBar Cafe in downtown Palo Alto at the end of March.

Don’t even strain yourself to look for a curry or tandoori burger on this menu. There is nothing Indian about it. Instead, find everything from the “American Classic Slider” ($2.89) with a Niman Ranch beef patty, and served with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, mayo and a pickle to the “Memphis-Style Natural Pulled Pork Slider” ($4.49), made with Niman Ranch pork, and coleslaw.

Breakfast is served all day, too. So you can enjoy a “Mediterranean Breakfast Slider” ($2.69) with a cage-free egg, olives, artichokes, tomatoes, onions, feta cheese and roasted garlic sauce on a puffy little white bun, no matter what the hour.

SliderBar also offers a variety of wines, including economical ones on tap from kegs and dispensing machines that help preserve the wines better.

Why baby burgers?

“I wanted to do something simple and not fine dining,” says Dhawan, who is still part-owner of Mantra. “Fine dining is too hard these days. I also was very interested in portion control.” Light eaters can order one slider while their carnivore companions can go to town to order them by the trio or even by the dozen.

Recently, I was invited as a guest to try SliderBar, where the menu is still being tweaked a bit. The yogurt shakes are now made with ice cream instead. The baked fries were axed in favor of the more traditional fried ones. And dessert offerings are still to come.

The casual restaurant was packed with folks with laptops on their tables, as well as families with young children. The front of the restaurant spills out onto the sidewalk, with tables for prime people-watching on bustling University Avenue. Two flat-screen TVs at the bar also provide entertainment.

You order at the bar, and the food is delivered to your table.

Garlic fries ($2.89) and sweet potato fries ($2.89) arrive in silver julep tumblers, hot, crisp, and done perfectly.

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New Happy Hour, Good-For-You Granola, Seafood Fund-Raiser & More

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On the Peninsula:

If you haven’t yet checked out Junnoon’s swank revamped cocktail lounge, now’s the time to do so at the downtown Palo Alto restaurant’s new extended “Happy Hour,” every Thursday, 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Starting June 17, the 15-seat lounge rolls out its new “Street Food Meets Bollywood Beats”, which will feature DJ tunes, two-for-one cocktails and Indian street food-inspired bites. Sip a Mumbai Mojito while nibbling on “Darjeeling Steamed Wontons” ($9) or “Tangy Semolina Shells” ($8).

June 25-26, Marché in Menlo Park will spotlight Pacific seafood on its menu with proceeds to benefit the Gulf Coast cleanup.

The four-course menu will include the likes of “Confit of Half Moon Bay Albacore with Olive Oil Pudding and Kalamata Granité” and “Hawaiian Mero Bass and Local Abalone with Porcinis.”

Price is $80 per person with an additional $59 for wine pairings. Ten dollars from each dinner sold will be donated to the Louisiana Bayoukeepers, members of the Waterkeeper Alliance, which have been the first line of defense against this oil leak disaster. Donations will help pay for clean-up supplies, protective gear, emergency office space and food for volunteers.

The Asian Chefs Association, which will be cooking up a storm at the James Beard House in New York on Oct. 4, will be preparing a preview dinner June 27 at Chef Chu’s restaurant in Los Altos.

The five-course dinner will give you a taste of what the chefs have up their toques even if you can’t make it to New York for the real deal. Dishes include crab Napoleon with Kobe beef and foie gras butter sauce by Jackson Yu of Live Sushi Bar in San Francisco; and kaffir lime broiled scallop with asparagus, gobo and corn pudding by Scott Whitman of Sushi Ran in Sausalito.

Price is $100 per person. Reservations must be made in advance by calling (510) 883-9386 or emailing chau@chilipepperevents.com.

Galaxy Granola of San Rafael, which touts its healthful granola as having about 70 percent less fat than its competitors, wants you to trade in your fatty foods for good-for-you ones.

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A Swine Time at Cochon 555

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Last night in San Francisco, it was all about pig, pig and more pig.

Cochon 555, which pits five top San Francisco chefs against one another in a pork-off, rolled into the Fairmont San Francisco on Sunday night to a sell-out crowd of 450 carnivores.

Each of the chefs had to prepare a 140-pound heritage breed hog from head to toe. A panel of judges, as well as the public, got to taste the dishes to determine one winner who will go on to compete with nine others selected from around the country at the Grand Cochon at the Food & Wine Classic at Aspen, June 18-20.

In one corner, Anthony Strong of Pizzeria Delfina, whose weapon of choice was a Glouster Old Spot, known for its distinctive layer of back fat. In a second corner, Dennis Lee of Namu, dueling with a Yorkshire pig, known for its muscularity. In the third corner, Thomas McNaughton of Flour + Water, holding court with a Duroc (otherwise known as Berkshire), a favorite among chefs for its intramuscular marbling and thick fat cap.  In the fourth corner, Morgan Maki of Bi-Rite Market, with a Mangalitsa, a very rare breed famous for its high-quality lard-type fat and for having double the marbling of your average pork. Lastly, Staffan Terje of Perbacco with a Swabian Hall pig, the first time one has been shown in the United States. This unusual pig was created in 1821 in Germany, from the mating of the fattest pig in the world with the leanest.

It was a chance for folks not only to taste, but to learn about some heritage breeds rarely available at supermarkets or restaurants. It was an opportunity to get up close and personal with owners of small ranches who raise these now-scarce breeds, as well as with some elite San Francisco butchers, who have become veritable rock stars for bringing back a lost art. Indeed, you’d be hard pressed to see so many people at one place armed with knives, mallets and saws. There was something primal, even carnal, about it all.

Dave the Butcher, along with women butchers from Avedano’s Holly Park Market in San Francisco, got the pig party started by demonstrating how to take apart a whole pork shoulder. To emphasize just how healthful heritage pork is, Dave the Butcher even popped a raw sliver into his mouth.

He quipped, “When it comes to the pigs we use, we try to know where it comes from, what it eats, and what TV programs it watches.”

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