Category Archives: Restaurants

The Allure of Alora

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A salt cod fritter goes glam at Alora.
A salt cod fritter goes glam at Alora.

The newest restaurant by Vikram and Anu Bhambri, the husband-and-wife team behind a handful of contemporary Indian establishments in the Bay Area, is a major departure.

And it’s a doozy.

Alora opened in late-January on Pier 3 on San Francisco’s Embarcadero to serve up ambitious Mediterranean fare with aplomb, as I found when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant last week.

The couple, who have tech backgrounds, got their restaurateur start with Rooh in San Francisco, followed by a second Rooh in downtown Palo Alto. Then, came Pippal in Emeryville in November. Look for Fitoor, and Indian grill, to open March 19 at San Jose’s Santana Row.

The stylish dining room.
The stylish dining room.

For Alora, they tapped Ryan McIlwraith as executive chef, who formerly held that position at Bellota in San Francisco, and was chef de cuisine at Coqueta in San Francisco and director of culinary development for Bottega restaurants in San Francisco and Yountville.

It’s an interesting setup with the main dining room in one building and the kitchen in another one a couple yards away connected by a breezeway. McIlwraith may have jested that servers have to ensure that the dill doesn’t blow off a plate in transit, but noted it’s actually a smooth path unless there’s a major storm. In cases like that, they take extra care to put covers on all plates.

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Bow Down to Four Kings

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The signature fried squab at Four Kings. Only 15 are offered each night.
The signature fried squab at Four Kings. Only 15 are offered each night.

The food of my childhood has been stunningly reinvigorated at the new Four Kings in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

If you’re Chinese American and of Cantonese heritage like myself, one taste of the dishes here will take you back nostalgically to many a celebratory Chinese banquet meal of long ago, as well as just plain ol’ homey weeknight gatherings with family at Formica-topped tables at local hole-in-the-wall joints.

Four Kings, which officially opens to the public on March 14, is the brainchild of chefs Michael Long and Franky Ho, former sous chef and chef de cuisine, respectively, of Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s a block away. The duo, along with Millie Boonkokua, general manager of Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco, and Long’s wife, Lucy Li, an accountant, pooled their money along with that from friends and family to open this brick-and-mortar, following a series of sold-out pop-ups last year.

The open kitchen with counter seating.
The open kitchen with counter seating.

Last week, I had a chance to snag an early pre-opening reservation at the u-shaped counter that surrounds the open-kitchen — the best seats in the house if you enjoy seeing all the action up close.

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Dining at Foliage

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Half Moon Bay black cod with an airy sweet potato puree at Foliage.
Half Moon Bay black cod with an airy sweet potato puree at Foliage.

On a cute corner in San Francisco’s Bernal Heights, a neighborhood of adorable Victorian and Edwardian homes and the welcoming Precita Park, Foliage restaurant opened its doors late last year.

It’s billed as a bouillon-style restaurant. Nope, that has nothing to do with broth, but everything to do with a style of French restaurant that’s more casual than a bistro, with an affordable prix-fixe that changes frequently.

The spot was formerly the Michelin-starred Marlena, which closed, following the departure of husband-and-wife chefs David Fisher and Serena Chow Fisher, who went on to open 7 Adams in San Francisco. Husband-and-wife owners, Stephan Roulland and Julia Indovina reinvented the space as Foliage. For their new executive chef, they tapped Mo Béjar, who cooked previously at Bird Dog in Palo Alto, Canteen in Menlo Park, and Madera in Menlo Park, and who grew up on his family’s ranch in Salinas.

The decor lives up to the name, with photos of plants on the walls, plus a dramatic arrangement of plants, with their leaves cascading down a central station in the dining room that holds wine bottles and glasses.

As far as prix-fixe menus go, Foliage’s is quite moderate in price at $75 for four courses or $135 with a wine pairing. There are a few supplemental courses that you can add, too, if you so wish.

Foliage sits on a corner in the cute Bernal Heights neighborhood.
Foliage sits on a corner in the cute Bernal Heights neighborhood.
The dining room.
The dining room.

Because the staff is small — Béjar and a sous chef in the kitchen, plus one server, along with Indovina lending a hand in the dining room — the pacing can be rather languid, as I found when I was invited in last Wednesday as a guest of the restaurant. That means a four-course meal may take close to two hours. So, if you’re in a hurry to eat after a long day at work, this might not be your best option. But if you’re in a relaxed frame of mind, then sit back and go with the flow.

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Dining At the New Singular Movida

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Chile relleno stuffed with basmati rice and lamb at Movida.
Chile relleno stuffed with basmati rice and lamb at Movida.

There is Mexican food.

And there is Persian food.

Thanks to the new Movida Lounge in San Francisco’s South of Market District, there is now Persian-Mexican cuisine, too.

At first thought, you might think this a puzzling head scratcher. But reflect further, and you’ll realize that over the past decade, all manner of cuisines have been folded up and tucked into tacos and burritos, most notably Korean fare at Los Angeles’ ground-breaking Kogi Korean BBQ truck. So, smoky kebabs and Middle Eastern dips enveloped in tortillas, especially ones that also incorporate rice like they do here, aren’t so farfetched after all.

Especially when you learn that after Co-Owner Bobby Marhamat’s parents immigrated from Iran to Nebraska, they ended up buying a Mexican restaurant to operate. And naturally, the two cuisines started to meld at home.

The dining room has a lounge-like feel.
The dining room has a lounge-like feel.

Movida is an outgrowth of that. Or as his wife and Co-Owner Shima Marhamat explains, “We took A and B — and created C.”

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Dining Up On The Third Floor

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The incredible duck soup at The Third Floor in San Francisco.
The incredible duck soup at The Third Floor in San Francisco.

Can we talk duck soup?

Because we must.

The kind redolent of star anise plus a pop of chili. The kind with an aroma that tantalizes with warm spices from the first whiff. And the kind that soothes, satisfies, and lingers on the mind and palate long after the last slurp.

I’m talking about the superlative duck soup at the new Third Floor Restaurant and Lounge, which opened late last year inside San Francisco’s 25-story Jay Hotel near the Embarcadero.

It’s the first hotel restaurant by the Omakase Group, the force behind such celebrated establishments as Niku Steakhouse, Omakase, and Dumpling Time.

The Third Floor dining room.
The Third Floor dining room.

What was formerly Le Meridien hotel has undergone a multi-million-dollar renovation that includes a sleek contemporary yet soothing pale earth-tone interior design by AvroKO, which also did SingleThread Farms in Healdsburg. The look was inspired by the organic and natural sculptural style of the late-great Ruth Asawa.

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