Category Archives: Travel Adventures

A Visit to Merced, Part II: Hi-Fi Wine and Vista Ranch

Visit Hi-Fi Wine to discover a unique tasting room devoted to boutique wines.
Visit Hi-Fi Wine to discover a unique tasting room devoted to boutique wines.

Merced, CA — During the pandemic, while the rest of us were binging Netflix and trying to keep sourdough starters alive, Tracy Proietti was dreaming up her ideal wine shop, Hi-Fi Wine.

In 2019, the former lawyer and middle school language arts teacher moved from Baltimore where she lived in a historic building above a wine shop. With time on her hands when life shut down during Covid, she and her mother, her business partner, set about creating this inviting wine bar and shop.

Opened in May 2022, the light-filled, cozy community gathering spot was designed to be a place where wine was eminently approachable.

Lawyer-turned wine shop owner Tracy Proietti.
Lawyer-turned wine shop owner Tracy Proietti.

A restored hi-fi that has a variety of LPs to play is the focal point that gave the establishment its name — for good reason.

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A Visit to Merced, Part I: El Capitan Hotel, Rainbird Restaurant, and Mainzer Restaurant

Terrific ricotta pancakes with blueberry compote at Rainbird restaurant at the El Capitan Hotel.
Terrific ricotta pancakes with blueberry compote at Rainbird restaurant at the El Capitan Hotel.

Merced, CA — This San Joaquin Valley town has long been known as the “Gateway to Yosemite” from as far back as when stagecoaches and the Central Pacific Railroad turned it into a major transportation hub. Nowadays, most folks make the journey between the two by car, which will take close to 2 hours (if Highway 140 is open).

As many times as I’ve visited Yosemite, I had never stopped in Merced. But I had the opportunity to do just that last month when I was invited for a stay as a guest of the landmark El Capitan Hotel.

Opened in 2021 after three years of construction, it may be downtown Merced’s newest hotel to open, but it wisely maintains links to its history.

The original El Capitan was built a block away in 1872 as a waystop for travelers continuing on to Yosemite. In 1900, however it was razed by the railroad company to make way for a railroad stop. It was later rebuilt at its current location of M and Main Streets in 1912, and restored after a fire ravaged it in the 1930s.

The hotel is a mix of old and new.
The hotel is a mix of old and new.
The stylish common area in the hotel.
The stylish common area in the hotel.
An antique piece that used to hold room keys and messages at the original hotel on the site.
An antique piece that used to hold room keys and messages at the original hotel on the site.

The 114-room boutique hotel is largely new construction, but connects with the original annex in the back. Wander back there, and you’ll even find an antique furniture piece from the early 1900s with slots that once held room keys and written messages.

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Dining at Violetto at the Alila Napa Valley

Smoked sturgeon and cauliflower rillettes with caviar at Violetto at the Alila resort.
Smoked sturgeon and cauliflower rillettes with caviar at Violetto at the Alila resort.

The resort now known as Alila Napa Valley (formerly Los Alcabas) has always been one of my favorite properties in St. Helena for its striking juxtaposition between old and new.

In 2021, the Alila hotel group took over the property with its oversized, minimalist, gray-toned rooms with spectacular vineyard views, with the vines so close to the ground-floor rooms that you could walk out your terrace to touch them.

In May 2024, it completed its transition by debuting its new restaurant, Violetto, housed in the property’s beautifully ornate 1907 mansion.

Chef Thomas Lents serves a French-Italian menu with thoughtful options for a 7-course tasting menu ($145) with optional wine pairing ($85), four-course prix fixe ($105) with optional wine pairing ($65), or a la carte. There are also supplemental items you can choose to add.

Violetto is housed in a 1907 mansion.
Violetto is housed in a 1907 mansion.
The main dining room.
The main dining room.
The bar-lounge area.
The bar-lounge area.

Recently, I was invited as a guest of the property and restaurant to stay overnight and to experience the new menu.

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Japan Eats, Part II: Michelin-Starred Koke

Playful squid-ink crackers filled with chorizo at Michelin-starred Koke in Kyoto.
Playful squid-ink crackers filled with chorizo at Michelin-starred Koke in Kyoto.

Kyoto, JAPAN — One can eat exceedingly well for little in Japan, and goodness knows that my husband and I did. However, we decided to splurge for one dinner during our recent two-week trip to Japan, and that was to Michelin-starred Koke in Kyoto.

Japan is a dichotomy, where both the ancient and the futuristic are revered. So, when it came to picking a kaiseki restaurant, I chose one that breaks from tradition, one that blends Japanese and Spanish sensibilities in surprising ways.

It serves a 13-course tasting menu with a few of the courses composed of several small bites. You can opt for a regular wine pairing (a total of 700ml) or a small-sized pairing (350ml). The latter is what my husband and I chose.

For all food and drink for the two of us, we paid a grand total of $515 U.S., which is not too bad when you consider that in the Bay Area, many fine-dining tasting menus are easily more than $300 per person for the food alone without gratuity.

The unobtrusive sign to the restaurant.
The unobtrusive sign to the restaurant.
The courtyard that you enter before going inside the restaurant.
The courtyard that you enter before going inside the restaurant.

The restaurant hides behind a wall. On the other side, you’ll find a serene Japanese-style courtyard with a floor-to-ceiling window at one end that has a view into the restaurant’s dining room and kitchen. Koke is the Japanese word for “moss” and you’ll spot patches of it in the courtyard. It’s also a symbol of renewal, resilience, and interconnectedness.

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