Rice is like that little white (er, black) dress. Simple and basic. Yet add a few thoughtful flourishes and it commands a lingering attention.

That’s what “Dressed Rice with Shiso and Summer Gomasio” embodies.

Think of it almost as an open-face, deconstructed onigiri featuring Japanese pickled plums. Only even prettier.

The recipe is from “Bright Cooking” (Chronicle Books), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook was written by Camille Becerra, who has been the executive chef of five restaurants in New York, including As You Are in the Ace Hotel Brooklyn.

It’s a collection of more than 140 fresh tasting, vegetable-forward recipes. Learn how to make her fundamentals to enjoy on their own or in her suggested recipes.

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